2008 Moulin a Vent Clos du Carquelin, Ch des Jacques Louis Jadot



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£12.00

Average critic rating : 90.0 points

90

90

The 2008 Moulin-a-Vent Clos du Grand Carquelin mingles cherry, blackberry and red currant on an enticingly fragrant, vanilla-tinged nose and juicy, silken palate underlain by suggestions of beef marrow and blood pudding. The notes of oak here are merely an (attractive) aromatic embellishment, and this finishes with length, strength, and saliva-inducing salinity, tactile spice and mineral impingement adding invigoration. It should be worth following for at least half a dozen years. ||Jadot technical director Jacques Lardiere and Chateau des Jacques director Guillaume de Castelnau – for more about whose distinctive aspirations and methodology (including maturation in largely new barrels) please consult my report in issue 184 – have been blessed with a vintage that goes a long way toward validating their approach. All that’s missing, I suspect (granted that I tasted the wines before bottling), is to see how they live up to Lardiere and de Castelnau’s ambitions for age worthiness. Given the quality offered here for the prices – which, frankly, I admire Jadot for having from the outset of this project set at levels that would make a statement, but which have since been rounded down – anyone with an interest in Beaujolais; in the history of French wine; or in red wine value generally, ought to help make history by cellaring a sampling of these amazing wines. Note that beginning with the 2008 vintage, the name of Chateau des Lumieres is being dropped from the Morgons grown and vinified there, which will instead be bottled under the name of Chateau des Jacques. Wine from a parcel of Chenas that Guillaume de Castelnau personally purchased will also be bottled under this label, after it passed muster with a reputedly skeptical Lardiere in blind tastings, though whether this wine will reach the U.S. (it’s in Canada) remains to be seen. The Jadot plan is to routinely bottle separately a portion of wine from each of Chateau des Jacques’s Moulin-a-Vent vineyards, but in some instances (depending on quality and yields of a given vintage) in non-commercial quantities. So for instance, while I have for the record reported on each of their 2008s, I have noted those that were bottled solely for the record. I tasted all of the Chateau des Jacques 2009s – which were harvested rapidly beginning September 18 and none of which exceeded 14% alcohol – as close approximations (closer where the lots were smaller) to their final assemblages, which did not take place until June (with bottling anticipated in September). Jadot vinifies a range of Beaujolais under their regular label – chief among these being a Beaujolais-Villages especially admirable in vintage 2009 – but with that one exception I once again did not have chance to taste that line of wines.||Imported by Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490 9300 Wine Advocate.August, 2010

Louis Jadot: The Importance

Maison Louis Jadot is highly commended by Robert Parker, who calls them “probably the best run negociant firm in Burgundy” and writes that “one can be almost certain that a Jadot wine from Burgundy, from whatever part of their enormous spectrum of wines, including those of villages level, will possess clarity of flavour and a site-specific distinction.” Antonio Galloni and Allen Meadows also regularly give top scores to Jadot.

 

Due to Burgundy's intracacies, Premier Cru and Grand Cru wines from Louis Jadot are no less rare or sought after than their counterparts from smaller growers, meanwhile the quality tends to be much more reliable because of the scale of their operation and their extraordinary range of terroirs and climats combined with expert winemaking and vineyard management.

 


Louis Jadot: The Insight

Robert Parker says that “it is hard to single out individual stars in the illustrious Jadot nebula, but their long- keeping Pinot Noir from the monopole Beaune Clos des Ursules (part of the Vignes Franches premier cru) is something of a flagship, and the Jadot Musigny and Jadot Chevalier -Montrachet Les Demoiselles frequently represent the summits of Jadot artistry.” This last wine has also wowed Allen Meadows, who calls it “without question a reference standard example of a great Chevalier. The purity, elegance and sheer beauty of this wine is frankly difficult to adequately describe as words just don't seem up to the task.”

 

Counting Grands Crus alone, Jadot have Chardonnay plantings in Corton Charlemagne, Corton Grèves and Corton Pougets as well as Le Montrachet, Chevalier Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet and Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet making some of the finest white Burgundies on the market. The Grand Cru list of reds is no less impressive, featuring Bonnes-Mares, Chambertin, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze, Charmes-Chambertin, Chapelle-Chambertin, Mazis-Chambertin, Laticières-Chambertin, Griotte-Chambertin, Clos de la Roche, Clos de Vougeot, Clos Saint-Denis, Echezeaux, Grands Echezeaux, Musigny, Richebourg and Romanée-Saint-Vivant.

 

According to Robert Parker: “there is no Jadot house style, save for rich, well-delineated, structured wines that stand the test of time.” The incredible range of quality wines produced by Jadot in every kind of cru is best understood in the words of the legendary technical director Jacques Lardière: “There are so many great wines made in the less well-known villages, and if people want to find great value and great wines, it is very, very possible if they will look beyond the most famous appellations. All it takes is a little imagination. Look at the hill of Corton for instance- we have Corton Pougets, Corton “Grèves and a Corton rouge that are all fantastic wines – deep, structured and beautiful expressions of their underlying terroir. Or look at a wine like the Savigny-lès-Beaune Clos des Guettes or Pommard “Rugiens – just great wines year in and year out!”

 


Louis Jadot: The Background

Jacques Lardière retired in December 2012 but then almost immediately got back to work setting up the Résonance in Williamette Valley, Oregon. The current face of the winery Frédéric Barnier worked alongside Lardière for several years before taking over, just as a generation ago Lardière himself apprenticed under the renowned André Gagey.

 

Skills have been handed down at Jadot since 1826, when the Domaine was established as one of the earliest Burgundy negociants. After the Second World War, the domaine benefitted from investment by American importer Kobrand. This partnership was negotiated by Rudoph C. Kopf, who founded the prestigious wine importing company in 1944 and headquartered its offices in the Empire State Building. Kopf already commanded the respect of the American market, having set up the fine wine department at New York City’s iconic department store Macy’s. Kobrand helped Jadot to continue acquiring prestigious Burgundy domaines, some of which are still referenced on labels today, such as Duc de Magenta, Gagey, Ferret and the recently successful Château des Jacques in Beaujolais.



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