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Average critic rating : 91.0 points
The 2013 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru les Ruchots, which was picked five days prior to the Aux Chezeaux, has a sedate, quite floral bouquet with subtle violet petal scents emerging with aeration. It remains placid in the glass and gently grows in intensity as it loses its inhibitions. The palate is medium-bodied with tensile tannin. This is a les Ruchots with a "steely gaze," never taking its eye off the ball, almost stoic on the intense mineral finish. Excellent–but serious!||"Every morning we went out and took off boarmie caterpillars from the vine that attack the buds when they start to open," Cyprien told me when I visited his winery in Morey-Saint-Denis."There was particularly many in Bonnes-Mares and Clos Saint Denis. Nature has a good taste!"|"We started the harvest pretty late. We picked young vines on 4 October but I really started on 6 October until 16 October. The rain came on 4 and 5 October and then during the harvest there were showers, but we had to pick even though I wanted to wait as long as I could. I was not worried about the rot because every year I deleaf by hand. I've been doing that for eight years now, since we became organic, and if you see two bunches close together you can separate them to increase air circulation. That was very helpful in 2013. I knew that when I started pick I had to go fast, so I picked 20 more people and bought a second sorting table because there were more grapes coming into the winery. So we picked two days faster than usual. I do a maximum of three pigeage during the entire fermentation and so that remained the same. But the maximum amount of grapes I discarded through sorting was only 6%. In 2013, the recommendation was not to let the fermentation be delayed, but just let the fermentation start naturally, which they did after six days. I used some whole bunch in the grand crus, around 25%. We are lucky to see in the same decade very early vintages and very late vintages, like it used to be 30 years ago. You see the ripeness developing during September. If you have healthy vines that will keep the berries healthy until they reach phenolic ripeness. I did not chaptalize any of the cuvees more than half a degree and I did not chaptalize the Clos Saint Denis at all because it achieved 12.5 degrees natural alcohol." ||I just love where this domaine is going. Cyprien is clearly a skilled winemaker who extracts the best from his enviable array of holdings. Stylistically, they lean ever so slightly toward what you might call a more "modern" style, the Pinot fruit slightly blacker than red, yet it would be deceiving to describe them as "modern." They have a sheen to them, a vitamin-like purity that truly comes into its own among the premier and grand crus. His standout wine might well be the Clos-Saint-Denis this year, perhaps the stellar Gevrey Combottes. I would not happily cellar either for a decade to see what comes out the other side. eRobertParker.com.January, 2015
Herve Arlaud took over from his father in 1984 and in 1998 his first son joined him in the vineyards, since added to by another son and daughter, a true family business. Despite being the manager both in the vineyard and winery of Domaine Herve Arlaud, he has found the time to extend the holdings to the current 15 hectares that covers 19 appellations including the grands crus Clos de la Roche, Clos Saint Denis, Charmes Chambertin and Bonnes Mares. Since 1998 all these plots follow “lutte raisonnee” farming methods and they also have two horses to cultivate the vineyards. The domain is situated in the commune of Morey St Denis, with cellars at Nuits st Georges dating back to 14th C. where the older vintages are stored.
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