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Average critic rating : 91.0 points
The 2013 Morey-Saint-Denis Millandes has a well-defined, more terroir-driven bouquet compared to the Sentier '13, with impressive delineation and minerality coming through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins. There is good tension here with plenty of blackcurrant pastilles, raspberry coulis and white pepper lining the focused finish. This has great potential but it will need bottle age. ||Michel Magnien is the domaine side of the namesake's Morey-based operation, Frédéric Magnien being the négoçiant side (see separate entry.) His wines had not been reviewed in this publication, so I visited Michel in late August. Therefore, they represent some of the first 2013s that I tasted, alongside the 2012s, that I will report on in the future. "I want to make wine with grapes that I can eat," Michel explained as I started tasting through their comprehensive portfolio (one assumes he spends much time in the vineyard nibbling the berries.) I asked Michel if there was a comparison he could make between 2013 and another vintage? "Maybe like 1993," he answered before furnishing me with further information. "The harvest started two days too late. I was among the first to start, which was four days after Lalou Bize-Leroy, around 29 or 30 September. We lost some grapes at the end because of rot. I had to chaptalize 1% and I didn't want to push it further than that." I asked Michel if the style of his wines has changed in recent years? "I used to have problems with reduction between 2001 and 2008, perhaps a little in 2010, but now it is fine," he replied candidly. "The winemaking style has changed - the fruit is now more on the black side. We used to destem 100%, but now I have come back to a soft destemming and more whole bunch. When I use whole bunch, punching down is by foot so there is no green character. The stems is just to give more oxygen in the wine and to irrigate the cap." So as we can see, there has been a shift in style at Michel Magnien and I think for the better compared to the wines I was tasted several years ago. eRobertParker.com.December, 2014
Before Michel Magnien joined the family business in 1946, his father Bernard owned 4 hectares of vines but sold the grapes to the local cooperative. Michel added new vineyards and begun bringing winemaking in-house, but it was only when Bernard’s grandson Frederic arrived that the whole crop was bottled at the domaine.Domaine Michel Magnien now owns 5 hectares of vines with 3 grand crus (Charmes Chambertin, Clos de la Roche and Clos St Denis). The wines are aged in barrel (80% new oak for grand crus, 60% for 1er crus and 30% for the village wines).
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