2011 Morey St Denis En la Rue de Vergy Bruno Clair



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£355.00
£33.00

Average critic rating : 88.5 points

87-89

87-89

Here the nose is exceptionally fresh, cool and restrained with airy red pinot fruit that is liberally sprinkled with stone and floral hints. There is good richness to the detailed and intensely mineral-driven flavors that exhibit excellent precision though not the sheer depth or volume of the best of these villages level wines. That doesn't prevent an appreciation of the energy and saline character and the sense of balance is admirable. Tasted: Jan 14, 2013. Drink: 2017+

89

89

The 2011 Morey St. Denis En La Rue de Vergy comes from a parcel of vines planted on very shallow soils, to the point where they are planting directly on the limestone bedrock, the roots finding fissures to penetrate downwards. I was intrigued to learn that it was lying fallow until it was planted in 1981. It has an expressive bouquet with lifted red cherries, red currant and cold stone scents that are well-defined. The palate is fresh in the mouth with a taut opening: plenty of mineral-rich fruit and certainly the terroir translated with superb transparency toward the crisp, taut finish. Drink now-2017. ||I have tasted the wines of this Marsannay-based producer, born from the original Clair-Dau estate in 1979, since tasting my first Pinot Noir, and yet somehow I had never visited their cellars until now. Bruno Clair was on hand himself to guide me through the wines in his blur of French that at times can be difficult to understand, as if every word is joined together. As usual, at his side was cellar-master Philippe Brun. His is a relatively large portfolio spread over their 23 hectares of vineyard, which has expanded in recent years when leasehold contracts with Fougeray de Beauclair and Louis Jadot came to an end. While I found the white 2011s needing a little more precision and complexity, his reds are evolving into fine examples of the vintage and often exhibit a degree of finesse that I could not discern a decade ago. In particular, at the top end there is much to admire from wines that I feel belong within the top tier of producers. The domaine’s Corton-Charlemagne vines lie on the limit of Pernand-Vergelesses and Aloxe-Corton. Though they lie on the side of the latter, their orientation means that the wines tend to evolve more like those located on the Pernand side. eRobertParker.com.August, 2013

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