2014 Meursault les Clous (Domaine) Bouchard Pere & Fils



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Average critic rating : 87.38 points

89

89

There is enough reduction present to warrant decanting this if you're inclined to try a bottle young. Otherwise there is excellent underlying tension and delineation to the medium-bodied flavors that display plenty of minerality on the racy, intense and notably dry finale. This isn't quite as complex as the Clos St. Landry but even so the highly refreshing delivery is more interesting. Jun 2016, www.burghound.com, Drink: 2020+

86

86

The 2014 Meursault Les Clous (Domaine), which spends nine months in French oak (10% to 15% new) has a slightly generic bouquet--delineated and fresh, and yet lacking the personality I am looking for in a village cru level. The palate is fresh on the entry with lime and green apple notes, just a touch of salinity towards the finish, but never really putting its head above the parapet in this great white Burgundy vintage. The word that springs to mind is... "standard." Jan 2016, www.robertparker.com, Drink: 2017-2025

87

87

Bright, pale yellow. Orange juice and spicy oak on the nose. Supple and reasonably concentrated, showing modest complexity and depth to its soft citrus, lemon and spice flavors. Not bad but not exciting: I wanted more personality. Sep 2016, www.vinous.com, Drink: 2017-2021

87-88

87-88

The village vineyard Les Clous is located high on the sloape in Meursault between Les Tillets and Les Vireuils … above the village. The nose is quite aromatic and expressive with predominantly white fruit .. pear and white peach – slightly reductive currently. On the palate lovely cool and energetic fruit. A bit closed in the beginning but unfolds after 15 min in the glass. A very good generic Meursault. Mar 2016, www.winehog.org, Drink: 2020+

Bouchard Père & Fils: The Importance

The definitive Burgundy négociant is Bouchard Père & Fils, which, in Clive Coates’ opinion, is among the region’s best. Allen Meadows is regularly impressed by wines from this domaine, with old vintage stock providing a backdrop for the youthful recent releases, which have been on a noticeable upward curve in recent years. Steen Öhman tells his readers that he is “a big fan of the Bouchard whites, as they represent purity and refinement.”

 

Bouchard Père & Fils: The Insight

In Robert Parker’s opinion, the highlights of the domaine's offerings include their "flagship" Beaune-Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus, their "outstanding" parcels in Volnay, Vosne-Romanée, and Gevrey-Chambertin; and their "exceptional" holdings in Meursault, Puligny, and Chassagne, including "enough Chevalier-Montrachet to justify two separate bottlings".

 

Parker has reason to be impressed: Bouchard is the biggest landholder in Burgundy, with 43 bottlings from 74 Premier Cru vineyards spanning Burgundy, and 13 Grand Cru bottlings from 12 Grand Cru hectares. These include legendary terroirs such as La Romanée, “a stellar wine” according to Pierre Rovani, as well as a tremendous range of white wines of which Steen Öhman tells his readers that he is “a big fan.” For him, “they represent purity and refinement,” a view that is corroborated by John Gilman who describes recent vintages of the whites as “stunning”.

 

The 2010 Montrachet from Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils is pure magic in the bottle,” writes Gilman, while the 2011 is “utterly exhilarating and profound” and the 2012 “also brilliant.” According to Allen Meadows, the Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny provide “top value,” as does the white Puligny-Montrachet.

 

Bouchard Père & Fils: The Background

John Gilman has emphatically praised Bouchard’s move away from “aggressively spicy” Taransaud barrels for the élevage of their red wines starting in 2011. Gilman also notes that this kind of barrel has never been used for the white wines at Bouchard, which earn high praise from Gilman in every recent vintage.

 

Changes of management are nothing new at Maison Bouchard, whose cellars in Beaune have been in constant production since 1731, with vineyard holdings expanding drastically at the end of the 18th Century. The 19th Century was marked by intensified vineyard plantings in Beaune and the family schism that gave rise to the négociant firm Bouchard Ainé & Fils. As of 2015, Bouchard is part of “La Vigie,” a collection of wine estates managed by the family-run Champagne House Henriot. The highly-regarded Chablis producer William Fèvre is in the same stable, having been originally acquired by Bouchard in 1998.

 



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