0 immediate, 13 marketplace
Average critic rating : 96.0 points
The 2012 Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières has a bold, intense bouquet laden with lime flower, candied orange peel, limestone and fig aromas that soar from the glass. The palate is extremely well balanced with notes of apricot and white peach, later a smudge of marmalade and an almost exotic finish that could revivify the most fatigued of mouths. Wow. This might be Coche-Dury’s most compelling contribution to the vintage. This is nothing short of stunning - grand cru in all but name.||It is a measure of how busy I have been over the last few months that I forgot that I had tasted through Coche-Dury's 2012 at the domaine back in November! How can you forget tasting one of the finest exponents of white Burgundy? Luckily enough, I stumbled upon the notes nestling among reams of 2013. "It was a more difficult vintage than I can remember," remarked Raphael Coche at the time of my visit. "You had to be very vigilant. In 2013 we were more prepared but the 2012 came as a shock." Well, that did not seem to affect the wines that were quite simply astonishing. The two wines that rivet you to the spot at the Corton-Charlemagne, which is predictable, and the Meursault Genevrières, which might be less so. These were generally tensile, razor-sharp and deeply complex wines that will give pleasure to those lucky enough to receive allocations in the future. I was less taken with the reds in this vintage, except for what will be their final Pommard Village, their parcel having been part of an exchange for more Corton-Charlemagne. I cannot imagine there will be too many complaining about that. eRobertParker.com.June, 2015
Coche-Dury: The Importance
Even critics seldom get to taste the top wines of Coche Dury, but the last two decades have seen the elusive and mysterious Jean-François Coche emerge as “the essence of Burgundy’s vigneron culture,” in Antonio Galloni’s words. And as John Gilman observes, “Jean-François Coche’s name is now murmured with the same respectful awe that is reserved for Henri Jayer. From three starred Michelin restaurants to the auction floors of New York and London, it is the white wines of Monsieur Coche that are the most ardently sought after.” Jancis Robinson tells her readers that he is “perhaps the single most intriguing winemaker I visit. The ‘King of Meursault’ and ‘the best winemaker in Burgundy’ are just two expressions coined to describe the legendary J.F Coche-Dury.” However she also adds that “if you want to visit Coche-Dury you are almost certainly out of luck,” and sure enough, although Robert Parker acclaims Coche-Dury as “one of the greatest winemakers on planet Earth,” he himself never got the chance to taste at the Domaine. Scores have little bearing on the market for Coche, since whatever is available is bought up at lightning speed by fans of the Domaine.
Coche-Dury: The Insight
“The two crown jewels amongst the white wines in the Coche cellar are the Meursault-Perrières and the Corton-Charlemagne”, writes John Gilman. Surprisingly, Coche makes only one Grand Cru wine: Corton-Charlemagne, which Neal Martin describes as “liquid mineral. Imagine a limestone quarry being melted down and then distilled multiple times until there is just enough to fill your wine glass.” Coche makes Burgundy’s most sought-after Premier Cru whites: Meursault-Les-Perrières, Meursault Genevrières and Meursault Caillerets. The Meursault Villages, and lieu-dits like Meursault Rougeots, Meursault Vireuils and Puligny Montrachet Les Enseignères are also noteworthy. Some red wines are made: Auxey Duresses, Monthelie, a Volnay Premier Cru, and up until 2013 a parcel in Pommard called “Vaumuriens” which was sold to fund the purchase of more Corton-Charlemagne. One whole third of the Coche’s 9 hectare total production is regularly declassified and labelled generically, which partly explains the high quality level of the Coche Bourgogne Blanc and Bourgogne Aligoté, which in Galloni’s words “emphasizes crystalline focus, energy and tension” and can match many a Meursault for quality.
All the white wines are famous for their “prodigious resistance to premature oxidation,” in the words of Jancis Robinson, who explains that the influence of the Domaine’s house style is “at least partially responsible for the international trend of ‘struck match’ Chardonnay making” as countless others, both in Burgundy and elsewhere, have adopted more closed, tightly-knit styles for their Chardonnay to emulate the long ageing potential of Coche-Dury. The independent consumers’ website Oxidised-Burgs classes Coche-Dury among those producers “who have very little premature oxidation as a percentage of bottles opened and indeed seem to have no higher incidence of premature oxidation since 1994 than they did before.” The only other members of this category are François Ravenau in Chablis, DRC, and the affiliated Domaines Leroy and d’Auvenay.
Miniscule yields from ancient vines, meticulously sensitive vinification and no filtration before bottling give the Coche-Dury wines their characteristic intensely concentrated fruit and crisp but balanced acidity. They also have the potential to age for a very long time. The white wines of Coche-Dury have cult status, with prices and rarity to match. The red wines, which are made in a soft, gentle style, are often overlooked, and offer a perfumed and seductive style of Pinot Noir.
Coche-Dury: The Background
“The true golden age of Coche began,” according to John Gilman, in 1972 when a young Jean-François Coche took over the small Meursault-based Domaine that was founded by his grandfather Léon Coche in 1920. In 1975 he married Odile Dury, and the merging of their family estates gave the name we see on labels today. Jean-François was very meticulous in the vineyard and in cellar, but the secret to his enormous and unique success is still a mystery. According to Steve Öhman, “there are no secrets, just hard work in the vineyards.” While he tops up his barrels as often as possible to prevent oxidation, Jancis Robinson remarks that “he is one of the very few Burgundy growers who definitively does not want you to pour the remains of your precious wine sample back into the barrel.” As a character she finds him “miraculously unworldly. He really does care for little other than his precious vines and the barrels that he tends under the most modest of modern villas on the outskirts [of Meursault].” Since 2003 his son Raphael Coche has gradually taken over the day-to-day work at the Domaine, though it appears Jean-François still plays an important role. Tasting the 2013s from barrel, Allen Meadows finds Raphael still referencing his father’s remarks on the mildew-stricken vintage, which reminded him of 1968.
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