2013 Meursault Clos du Cromin Patrick Javillier



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£393.00

Average critic rating : 90.0 points

89-91

89-91

The 2013 Meursault Clos du Cromin, which sees no new wood, has an attractive custard crème and lemon-curd-scented bouquet, perhaps more modern in style than others, but delineated and focused. The palate is beautifully poised with orange zest and a light touch of peach. There is fine tension here, good weight with plenty of spice on the finish that lends it persistence in the mouth. This is a very capable Meursault in the making, although the Tête de Murger has the complexity.||Patrick Javillier is one of Meursault’s most consistent winemakers, also one who usually offers some of its best budget wines. “C’est un classique de mon époque,” he enthused as we began tasting from barrels. He was also candid in opining that it is a good vintage rather than an exceptional one. “It is a little inferior except for [Meursault] les Clousots, Puligny-Montrachet and Tête de Murgers which is more the style of the 2012,” he continued. “The grapes were riper than I had expected. We began the picking on 24 September but I had to get the harvesters in a week earlier because of the evolution of the grapes, especially vineyards like Clos du Cromin that ripened very well. There were differences in the rate of ripening between different terroirs, but I wanted to harvest earlier to maintain the purity of aromas.” The result is a commendable selection of 2013s from Javillier than might not possess the consistency of his superb 2012s, yet are not without highlights. I still feel that there could be some improvement with the reds that feel a little rustic and just lack the breeding of the whites. However, as ever Patrick offers some outstanding value at the “bottom” of his range: a riposte to those that claim Burgundy has become unaffordable. Yes, a lot has, but you just have to look a little harder these days. eRobertParker.com.December, 2014

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