2013 Meursault Charmes Henri Boillot

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Average critic rating : 91.0 points



The 2013 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes has a precise, citrus and yellow plum-scented bouquet with more minerality showing here than the Poruzots at the moment. The palate is taut and linear, but with admirable weight, a gentle grip in the mouth and a touch of spice and orange rind adorning the finish. This is one of the best Meursault '13s from Henri Boillot.||Although I have tasted Henri Boillot’s wines for many years, usually at one of their London agent’s offices, I have never actually visited the winery itself, located on the “other” side of the RN74 in an estate that includes the Damy cooperage. This impressive facility affords Henri far more space then if he were couched in some medieval maison in one of the villages, which is mandatory when you have such an all-embracing portfolio of wines. Of course, he is a scion of the Boillot family who established themselves in the region in 1885. Henri represents the fifth winemaking generation and on this visit he was accompanied by the sixth in the form of his son Guillaume, who has graduated from his viticulture studies. The portfolio of what you might call this “mini-négoce” is impressive, studded with a number of Grand Crus, spanning red and white. In 2013, he told me that he picked September 27 until October 5, yields incredibly low, hovering between 12 and 16 hectoliters per hectare. Henri seemed enraptured by the 2013s, describing them as having a “big definition of terroir.” That is true, though as usual his use of new oak means that in their youth, that tends to be slightly obscured by the wood and they require time to assimilate that oak. As Henri was keen to stress, he uses mainly 350-liter barrels that lessen their impact. Something to bear in mind when you see the percentages. eRobertParker.com.December, 2014

Since taking full control of the family estate, Domaine Jean Boillot, in 2005, winemaker Henri Boillot has become renowned for the sheer quality of his wines, made using vines which are more than 60 years old. He renamed the estate Domaine Henri Boillot soon after taking it over to eliminate confusion with his brother’s estate, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot.Boillot’s negociant arm, Maison Henri Boillot, is a benchmark producer of French estate wines which are outstanding examples of some of the Cote d-Or's most prestigious crus. From village-style Meursaults to Le Montrachet, Boillot’s wines have an intense minerality and are structured, linear and ageworthy. Although Henri does not own the vineyards from which his grapes are sourced, he farms them as meticulously as his own and uses the same methods to make the wines.

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