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Average critic rating : 93.0 points
The 2013 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru includes 90% whole-bunch fruit. It has greater perfume on the nose compared to the Mazoyeres, more floral and seductive with great purity. The palate is opulent and velvety with ripe and succulent tannins, layers of cassis and blackcurrant fruit with a svelte, lush finish. This is very fine, although I perceive more tension on the Mazoyères at the moment. ||Bernard Dugat escorted me down to his cozy, vaulted cellar that remains one of the most visually arresting in Burgundy. You wonder how many vintages have been raised in these solemn quarters over the centuries. Bernard was chipper as usual and it was a pleasure to meet his son. "Loïc is always in the vineyard," Bernard told me, "which is why you probably never see him." He was typically enthused by his roster of 2013s, which were picked from September 28, perhaps a little earlier than I might have anticipated, not that this is reflected in the wines. Yields were modest as usual at 28 hectoliters per hectare, and the wines underwent a long malolactic fermentation, often with a chaptalization of around 0.5 degrees. The Dugat-Py style remains one of generous use of new oak that may put off some more "traditionalist" Burgundy-lovers, although Bernard is adamant that it is absorbed with time and that his wines are not made for the short-term. Occasionally, I did feel that the wines would have been better if partially disrobed of their 100% new oak, other time it seemed more in sync...it just depends on the cru. As usual, quantities are miniscule so that you can normally count the number of barrels on one hand, and in the case of the elusive Chambertin, one finger. Readers should also note that in 2013 Bernard elected to vinify his Gevrey Perrières and Fonteny parcels separately in single 350-liter barrels instead of blending them together as he did last year. eRobertParker.com.December, 2014
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