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Average critic rating : 88.0 points
New wood (there is only one barrel) lends the Lignier 2007 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Combottes stronger and more detached resin and vanilla notes than in the corresponding 2008, and there is also a hint of heat, despite a measurably unexceptional level of alcohol. I attribute both of these weaknesses to a certain lack of stuffing endemic in the vintage, but this bottling certainly can boast charming ripeness of red berries along with underlying carnal notes and counterpoint of fruit pit piquancy, black tea smokiness, and herbal pungency. I suspect it will be best enjoyed over the coming 3-4 years, and perhaps knit more fully, although I’m skeptical on that score. ||Hubert and Laurent Lignier – for more on whose recent evolution as a domaine and as negociants, consult my report in issue 186 – had one barrel from 2008 still stuck in malo last February, and several others had only finished by Christmas. No wines had been bottled (though they were assembled) when I last tasted them in February; indeed even the 2007s here were not bottled until May and June of 2009. Natural alcohol in the 2008 collection peaked at 13% in the Charmes and Combottes (due to extreme millerandage there, notes Laurent Lignier) and all of the wines were very lightly-chaptalized. Sorting was much less arduous for them in 2008 than 2007, he adds. As is evident from my rating, the array of wines from lesser locations or that incorporate purchased fruit have not (in the years since the splitting-up of control over this estate) nearly approached the consistently outstanding quality that the three or four top Lignier bottlings continue to exhibit. Wine Advocate.June, 2010
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