2006 Gevrey Chambertin Les Cherbaudes Louis Boillot

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Average critic rating : 92.0 points



From 90 year old vines in a postage stamp of a cru catty-corner to Clos de la Beze, Boillot's 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cherbaudes is enthrallingly-scented with peony, rose, ripe cherry, peat, black tea, and smoked meat. With the most sweetness of fruit and sheer succulence of any of this year's Boillot wines, its abundant tannins are almost silkenly fine-grained. This hasn't the vivacity or juiciness of the Evocelles, nor quite the sumptuousness of the Champonnet, but it is the alluringly and ultimately, I suspect, the most complex of the trio. I'd like to see a little more length and finishing interest to correspond with this wine's amazing nose, but it had not been in bottle long when I tasted it, so that may come. I would give it at least a couple of years of peace and quiet before planning to follow it for a further 6-8 years, and perhaps longer. From 80-some year old vines although Pierre Boillot says his are 97, there may have been two dates of family planting ||Louis Boillot fields a diverse array of appellations reflecting in large part his Volnaysien grandfather's having become established in Gevrey. (For more about this family, see my report on Louis's brother Pierre in this issue. Like the wines of his wife Ghislaine Barthod – with whom he shares a facility in Chambolle – most of Louis Boillot's 2006s had not yet been bottled when I last tasted them.) Wine Advocate.December, 2009

Domaine Louis Boillot was established in 2002 when he left his father's estate (Lucien Boillot) to his brother Pierre to run and set up in Chambolle Misigny with his wife Ghislaine Barhtod - a winemaker in her own right. Here Louis runs 7 hectares and has exactying vineyard standards: these include low yields, green harvests, organic farming and only accepting the best fruit for vinification. Both Louis and Ghislaine's wines are made in the cellars under the house. (Henri Boillot of Volnay is a cousin)

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