2006 Gevrey Chambertin Les Champeaux

Denis Mortet

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Average Score 92.0

From a site hit by hail this vintage, the Mortet 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux suggests more sweetness of (in this instance, dark cherry) fruit than the corresponding Lavaux St.-Jacques, even in the nose. Hints of nutmeg and cocoa powder underline that tendency. Seamlessly rich and texturally refined, this misses the carnal and mineral dimensions that render the Lavaux so intriguingly deep, but suggestions of iodine and smoke nonetheless offer a welcome sense of counterpoint. The long finish is soothing and sensually satisfying. I suspect this wine will remain in good form for the better part of a decade, but foresee no likelihood that it will resist early drinking. Incidentally, Mortet has arranged for a horse to start working these steep vines, which a tractor cannot be trusted to reach, and on which they had therefore persisted in using herbicides. He thinks the advantages of horse plowing are starting to be felt in this vintage, but will be more evident soon. ||For his first entirely solo vintage, Arnaud Mortet was saddled with a load of challenges, most notably the legacy of hail in so many of his vineyards. His reaction was to back off on extraction and new wood, trends which he seems inclined to continue pursuing even in less tricky vintages. He opines that the "acid structure" of his 2006s – which are also amply endowed with largely fine-grained tannins – will help them age well. Wine Advocate.December, 2009

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