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Average critic rating : 93.0 points
The 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St Jacques has real pedigree on the nose, with great tension with superbly defined red and black cherry fruit interwoven with both minerals and palpable tension. The palate is poised with crisp acidity: a pleasant saline touch and real intensity on the finish that fans out like a pianist hammering a final chord of a bravura performance. This might actually outperform Rousseau's Clos Saint Jacques in the long-term! Let's see...||My visit to Domaine Jean-Marie Fourrier was the last during my first week dedicated to the 2013 vintage. We were joined by his "better half," Vicky, a dress rehearsal before the onslaught of visits during November. Those visitors will be in for a treat. Whether they are afforded the chance to taste through the entire portfolio is another matter, because Jean-Marie has vastly expanded the négoçiant range of wines because, as he put it: “I cannot afford to buy any land.” Him and the rest of Burgundy! This range is not quite as consistent as the domaine bottlings, partly because of the challenges of the vintages and partly because I guess he is getting accustomed to these new sites that include Les Amoureuses, Clos-de-Bèze and Chambertin however, there are some absolute beauties to seek out. I asked Jean-Marie the tenets of these wines, which will be marketed under his name. “I only buy grapes,” he answered, “and only from non-domaine appellations from growers that are also making wine themselves, and it must never exceed 30% of the production of the domaine.” With respect to the domaine bottlings, there was an uncommon consistency across the board. “The acidity was really high, which protected it from rot attack,” he explained. “As soon as the acidity went down then the rot attacked the grapes. In an ideal world it would have been best to complete the harvest in 24 hours! In the end we harvested over five days from 2 to 7 October. During this period I saw the progression of the rot. Pickers make a selection in the vineyard, but we used a sorting table with at least six people permanently manning it. Since I age the wines on the lees, the quality of fruit has to be perfect. Like everyone, the malolactics were later, our finishing at the end of August.” With such well-located vines, the cluster of premier crus around Chambolle and Gevrey are very consistent: clean and pure, unstinting in their offering of fruit, even if that is tempered by the growing season. If I had to kick them off a sinking dinghy, then the exquisite Chambolle-Gruenchers would be the last overboard. Predictably, the Griotte-Chambertin provides the highlight, though nowadays that is not an inexpensive wine, and frankly I would be content with any of the others in my cellar. eRobertParker.com.December, 2014
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