2012 Gevrey Chambertin Clos St Jacques Domaine Sylvie Esmonin

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£141.00 DP

Average critic rating : 93.75 points



There is a discreet touch of wood framing the intensely floral aromas of earthy dark berries, wet stone and soft spice hints. I like the detail and stony character of the impressively vibrant and beautifully well-balanced flavors that display outstanding length. This is a serious wine that has the potential to reward mid to even longer-term cellaring. Tasted: Jan 15, 2014. Drink: 2022+



Finally the 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos Saint Jacques, where Sylvie owns 1.61-hectares of vines planted during the 1960s, the most northerly of the “strips” that traverse the entire incline. It was showing a lot of reduction on the nose due to the late malo-lactics. But the palate has it all going on – beautifully balanced with wonderful mineralite, superb tension and a long tender, sorbet-fresh finish that is entrancing. Whilst it is difficult to really pin down at this premature moment, the stoniness you can feel on the tongue after the wine has departed is simple wonderful.||If you love Burgundy then Sylvie Esmonin has the ultimate back garden. I mean, imagine opening your back door and walking straight into Clos Saint Jacques. Sylvie’s parcel, one of five lucky enough to own vines in Gevrey-Chambertin’s greatest premier cru (all reviewed in this report incidentally) is part of her 7.80-hectares of vineyards, although like many other growers her Bourgogne Rouge and Volnay Santenots were both reduced down to a measly one barrel. Sylvie spoke with intense, infectious passion about her wines and her 2012s despite the depleted quantities. In 2012, she commenced picking on 24 September and finished around one week later. Sylvie has been practicing with whole cluster fermentation from 2000 and it is no different this year (see tasting notes for exact percentages.) She told me that she has a particularly cold cellar that meant that malo-lactic fermentations were very late – which suited her fine. She will make two rackings, one just after the malo-lactic and a second will be one month prior to bottling, though she is considering a third. Despite having to peer through a bit of reduction in the barrel samples, I adored her 2012s that stylistically reminded me of Trapet’s: cerebral wines, quite tannic, very linear, every atom imbued with freshness and tension, perhaps uncompromising wines that express their respective terroirs. This comes as no surprise given that she applies biodynamic practices in her vineyard, though perhaps she is less dogmatic than Jean-Louis. eRobertParker.com.December, 2013


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