2012 Gevrey Chambertin Domaine de la Vougeraie

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Average critic rating : 88.25 points



Much more moderate wood allows the very fresh red cherry, earth and mildly sauvage aromas to shine. The supple and very round flavors are less concentrated though they retain a beguiling mouth feel, all wrapped in a lightly mineral-inflected and mildly austere finish. This is really quite pretty. Tasted: Jan 15, 2014. Drink: 2019+



The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Village comes from 5 different parcels such as “Les Galands” and “La Justice” and this year it contains 50% whole bunches. It has a foursquare but defined bouquet with simple brambly, slightly tertiary red fruit. The palate works well with sappy red berries, a fine line of acidity and a solid, stocky finish with grippy tannins. This will provide enjoyable early drinking. ||Domaine de la Vougeraie was founded in 1998 when the domaines of Claudine Deschamps, Pierre Ponnelle, Louis Voilland and L’Heritier-Guyot were merged. I remember it well because at the time I was exporting L’Heritier-Guyot’s wines to Japan (to be frank, they were quite ordinary back then.) The man behind the venture was Jean-Claude Boisset, whose own considerable holdings meant that Domaine de la Vougeraie became a significant player in the Cote d’Or, with 37 hectares of prime vineyard including seven grand crus to their name. I have to be honest and say that like many others, I liked the first few vintages of their wine, but found them a little predictable and seemed to struggle for charm and personality. Perhaps that was a reflection of former winemaker Pascal Marchand applying the practices he had learned at Comte Armand: a lot of new oak with 100% de-stemmed fruit – not really my bag. When he departed for pastures new, incoming winemaker Pierre Vincent seemed to apply a gentler touch. The new oak is still part of the wines’ character, but there is certainly a more considered approach, plus he is more open to using whole cluster fruit. Managing such an array of wines with a relatively small team cannot be easy in challenging vintages such as 2012, or for that matter 2013. Pierre told me that his average yields were 22 hectoliters per hectare, though for the grand crus, they were down to 17 hectoliters per hectare. eRobertParker.com.December, 2013

Domainede la Vougeraie was created in 1999 when Jean-Claude Boisset decided to collate all of his vineyard holdings from his various negociant companies under one name. The name is inspired by Boisset’s significant holdings in the village of Vougeot and the domaine itself covers over 25 hectares of vineyards more than 20 different appellations. With six grand crus (Musigny,BonnesMares, Closde Vougeot, Charmes-ChambertinLes Mazoyères, CortonClos du Roi and Corton Charlemagne En Charlemagne), Domaine de la Vougeraie is one of Burgundy’s leading domaines.The premier and grand cru vineyards are all farmed biodynamically and yields are carefully restricted. Winemaker Pierre Vincent favours a delicate approach: hand sorting, cool maceration and the grapes are only punched down once a day. This results in elegant, complex wines which are of consistently high quality.

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