2007 Criots Batard Montrachet Henri Boillot

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Average critic rating : 95.0 points



Boillot’s 2007 Criots-Batard-Montrachet smells of Normandy cider, quince, peach, pistachio extract, iris, and narcissus. Wafting and persistent in florality; invigoratingly tinged by the tartness of fruit skin; suffused with chalk and meat stock-like in its marrowy richness, this taps a deep pool of fruit, culminating in a gloriously tenacious finish. I suspect one will be well-rewarded by this for a dozen or more years. ||As explained in my report in issue 180, Henri Boillot’s domaine is now legally known by his name rather than that of his father Jean, and is thus eponymous with his negociant business. Furthermore, given what seems to be a stylistic convergence as well as given Boillot's own preference in presenting his wines this year, I have folded together the coverage of these two entities, noting in the text of my notes those wines that come from the domaine. Boillot did not begin picking until the second week in September, harvesting fruit that he reported required only occasional, minimal chaptalization and had higher tartaric than malic acid, in contrast to their proportions in 2008. Since Boillot managed to achieve his ideals of “precision and minerality” even in the ripe 2006 vintage, it will come as no surprise that they have been brilliantly achieved in 2007. A preference for volume of healthy lees rather than their stirring and (as mentioned in my report on his 2006s) the utilization of 350-liter barrels rather than barriques are surely among the factors that permit these wines to marry richness with refreshment and clarity. On the other hand, even the wines of lesser appellation that receive less barrel exposure are still given extended time on their fine lees in tank before bottling, Boillot being a believer that "time is of the essence" to great white Burgundy, not in the proverbial sense but rather in that of taking enough if it. eRobertParker.com.December, 2009

Since taking full control of the family estate, Domaine Jean Boillot, in 2005, winemaker Henri Boillot has become renowned for the sheer quality of his wines, made using vines which are more than 60 years old. He renamed the estate Domaine Henri Boillot soon after taking it over to eliminate confusion with his brother’s estate, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot.Boillot’s negociant arm, Maison Henri Boillot, is a benchmark producer of French estate wines which are outstanding examples of some of the Cote d-Or's most prestigious crus. From village-style Meursaults to Le Montrachet, Boillot’s wines have an intense minerality and are structured, linear and ageworthy. Although Henri does not own the vineyards from which his grapes are sourced, he farms them as meticulously as his own and uses the same methods to make the wines.

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