2014 Corton Charlemagne (Domaine) Bouchard Pere & Fils



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Average critic rating : 93.25 points

94

94

Mild notes of wood and reduction mask the underlying fruit though I can say that it appears to be ripe. Otherwise there is outstanding volume and concentration to the big-bodied and openly muscular flavors that exhibit evident power and punch on the hugely long finale. This is presently very compact and like the Perrières very clearly built to age. I should note that while this is certainly going to need time it is not especially austere and I suspect that it will begin to drink well after only 5-ish years or so if that's your preference. Jun 2016, www.burghound.com, Drink: 2024+

90

90

The 2014 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, raised in 15% new oak like the Montrachet, has an attractive white chocolate and almond-scented nose that is pleasing, if missing a little complexity. The palate is well balanced, surprisingly austere on the entry but bestowed with impressive weight. It would benefit from more length and sustain on the finish, though it is balanced and there is a pleasing dab of lemongrass enlivening the finish. Give this a couple of years in barrel--a decent Corton-Charlemagne, even if I do prefer the Meursault Perrières! Jan 2016, www.robertparker.com, Drink: 2018-2030

94

94

Highly complex, soil-driven aromas of lime blossom, menthol, white pepper, mint and musky flowers. Utterly seamless and suave but very youthfully unevolved, with fresh citrus and mineral flavors complicated by sexy brown spices. A wonderfully subtle, lemony, penetrating wine with great flavor intensity and near-perfect acid balance. Most impressive today on the very subtle, slowly mounting, ultimately palate-staining finish. Conveys an impression of nobility without huge weight or power. Bouchard has bottled a splendid set of grand crus in 2014. Sep 2016, www.vinous.com, Drink: 2020-2030

95

95

The Corton Charlemagne is showing true Grand Cru level .. adding both refinement and depth. Seems like 2014 was a outstanding vintage for Corton Charlemange – have tasted quite a few and most are very fine – this is however among the best I have tasted. The bouquet is slightly understated offering white fruit and a delightful chalky minerality. On the palate airy and vibrant fruit .. intense and refined minerality … long, focused, intense and multidimensional. It’s a very refined Charlie the making. Jun 2016, www.winehog.org, Drink: 2028+

Bouchard Père & Fils: The Importance

The definitive Burgundy négociant is Bouchard Père & Fils, which, in Clive Coates’ opinion, is among the region’s best. Allen Meadows is regularly impressed by wines from this domaine, with old vintage stock providing a backdrop for the youthful recent releases, which have been on a noticeable upward curve in recent years. Steen Öhman tells his readers that he is “a big fan of the Bouchard whites, as they represent purity and refinement.”

 

Bouchard Père & Fils: The Insight

In Robert Parker’s opinion, the highlights of the domaine's offerings include their "flagship" Beaune-Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus, their "outstanding" parcels in Volnay, Vosne-Romanée, and Gevrey-Chambertin; and their "exceptional" holdings in Meursault, Puligny, and Chassagne, including "enough Chevalier-Montrachet to justify two separate bottlings".

 

Parker has reason to be impressed: Bouchard is the biggest landholder in Burgundy, with 43 bottlings from 74 Premier Cru vineyards spanning Burgundy, and 13 Grand Cru bottlings from 12 Grand Cru hectares. These include legendary terroirs such as La Romanée, “a stellar wine” according to Pierre Rovani, as well as a tremendous range of white wines of which Steen Öhman tells his readers that he is “a big fan.” For him, “they represent purity and refinement,” a view that is corroborated by John Gilman who describes recent vintages of the whites as “stunning”.

 

The 2010 Montrachet from Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils is pure magic in the bottle,” writes Gilman, while the 2011 is “utterly exhilarating and profound” and the 2012 “also brilliant.” According to Allen Meadows, the Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny provide “top value,” as does the white Puligny-Montrachet.

 

Bouchard Père & Fils: The Background

John Gilman has emphatically praised Bouchard’s move away from “aggressively spicy” Taransaud barrels for the élevage of their red wines starting in 2011. Gilman also notes that this kind of barrel has never been used for the white wines at Bouchard, which earn high praise from Gilman in every recent vintage.

 

Changes of management are nothing new at Maison Bouchard, whose cellars in Beaune have been in constant production since 1731, with vineyard holdings expanding drastically at the end of the 18th Century. The 19th Century was marked by intensified vineyard plantings in Beaune and the family schism that gave rise to the négociant firm Bouchard Ainé & Fils. As of 2015, Bouchard is part of “La Vigie,” a collection of wine estates managed by the family-run Champagne House Henriot. The highly-regarded Chablis producer William Fèvre is in the same stable, having been originally acquired by Bouchard in 1998.

 



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