2013 Corton Charlemagne Domaine Ponsot

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Average critic rating : 91.0 points



Despite a touch of reduction on the 2013 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, there is tangible earthiness on the nose that renders it broodier than some other Corton-Charlemagne tasted from barrel. The palate is well balanced with a fine thread of acidity that cuts through vibrant notes of almond and Cornice pear and a dab of lemongrass upon the effervescent, precise finish. This is a sublime Corton-Charlemagne, though without quite the complexity of other vintages that I have tasted.||Laurent Ponsot was my first visit in Morey-Saint-Denis. As usual he was looking dapper in a suit and shirt, his usual chatty self. Naturally, we touched upon the subject of counterfeits that Laurent has been instrumental in bringing to the courts and meting out some justice to one, if not all, of the perpetrators. I remember speaking to Laurent when the case was just beginning. Now at the other end I felt that he was somewhat fatigued by trips across the Atlantic and giving evidence in court. He's had enough of the limelight. But at least he is one of the few winemakers proactively using technology to monitor where his bottles end up (although I must admit, I find it a bit disconcerting that a red light might go "Ping" if I happened to uncork one of his wines.) The tenets chez Ponsot remain unchanged and have been discussed in detail before, the bottom line being the new oak is an anathema to Laurent. "In 2013 we had low yields," he explained. "It was exactly like in 1983 - around 15hl/ha. We started the harvest around 7 October, quite late, and we allowed the whites four months to rest in tank in order to get rid of any reduction." Laurent's 2013s are seriously fine propositions, in particular a stunning Clos-de-Bèze and Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes, though there is plenty to forage from more modest vineyard sites. There is also a négoçiant range that I did not taste here. Given the "coziness" of his cellar perched overlooking the village of Morey, Laurent has a new facility to handle these excess barrels. eRobertParker.com.December, 2014

Based in Morey St Denis, Domaine Ponsot is one of the most important producers in the Côte de Nuits. The domaine has holdings in the Chambertin grands crus and a significant parcel of Clos de la Roche. Most of the remaining holdings are in Morey St Denis, including the unique Clos des Monts Luisants: a white wine made from Aligoté vines planted more than 100 years ago.

Run by Laurent Ponsot since the early 1980s, the wines offer an idiosyncratic expression of excellent Pinot Noir: often difficult in their youth, Ponsot wines have a habit of blossoming with age and, at full maturity, can be breath-taking in their finesse and complexity.

Domaine Ponsot is the largest holder of the grand cru Clos de La Roche, with the Vieilles Vignes Cuvée one of the legendary wines of the Côte de Nuits. In neighbouring Clos St Denis, the vines are now more than 100 years old and the wine is labelled “trés vielles vignes”. As is typical with Clos St Denis, this offers a richer, more powerful expression of Pinot Noir than the more lifted and ethereal Clos de la Roche. Along with Domaine Dujac, Ponsot is the leading producer in these two vineyards.

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