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Average critic rating : 96.0 points
The Dujac 2006 Clos St.-Denis offers an interactive welter of aromas and flavors. High-toned kirsch, pistachio extract, peony, and ripe red fruits in the nose are joined by bitter-sweet dark chocolate, brown spices, clean red meatiness, and a cool, wet stone impression of minerality. There boasts exceptionally refined tannins in the context of the vintage, and a lot of energy, powering an exhilarating, multi-registered, and truly kaleidoscopic finish. It should cellar well for a dozen or more years, and I suspect it is less likely to close up temporarily than the 2005, with which it will inevitably – and entirely without hyperbole on the part of the taster or embarrassment on the part of the 2006! – be compared. ||Jeremy Seysses only destemmed a minority of his 2006 fruit, and in some appellations none. The results demonstrate that Dujac got things ripe – not to mention right – in a challenging vintage, with a collection that need not fear comparison with 2005 at this address. (Perhaps, if anything, 2005 ought to look to its laurels!) The team here started picking only on September 23, and then very meticulously and selectively. Clos de la Roche, for example, was picked in two passes nearly a week apart. The top wines came in at between 13 and 13.5% natural alcohol, with minimal chaptalization employed in some instances to extend fermentation. "Color and flavor extraction was easy," says Seysses, "and we did more punch-downs than in 2005, because we felt quite confident of our material. The fruit is fresh and crisp, but not green, and we had no jamminess. It was just right. There's very little to complain about." Indeed! Wine Advocate.December, 2009
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