0 immediate, 4 marketplace
Average critic rating : 94.0 points
The 2013 Chevalier-Montrachet la Cabotte has more intensity on the nose than the regular Chevalier, perhaps you could say more “exotic,” with heightened white peach and candied orange-peel scents neatly interwoven with the cold wet pavement scents. The palate is tighter and more reticent than the regular Chevalier-Montrachet, which comes as a surprise. But there is intensity locked inside this Grand Cru, a sense of purpose here and it finally (belatedly?) fans out gloriously on the finish. Superb.||I met cellarmaster Frédéric Weber at Bouchard Père this year at their winery (on the Beaune péripherique) bustling with tourists. Once we had gotten away from the madding crowds, I tasted through their entire range. “It was a little complicated in the vineyard,” Frédéric explained somewhat euphemistically. “The winter was cold and humid and this retarded the vegetative cycle by around 20 days. There was a lot of coulure in the Côte de Nuits so there was a small harvest. We lost around 30% of the crop from flowering there, but in the Côte de Beaune the flowering was better. However, there was the hailstorm on 23 July and for example, the vineyard of Pommard Pezerolles was completely lost. Fortunately, July was sunnier and it [the growing cycle] managed to catch up. We de-leafed the vines and we found that the berries were small and this aided aeration. We commenced the harvest on 30 September and it finished quite late on 11 October. We undertook a slightly longer maceration this year and we did one pigeage per day and no remontage for a more progressive fermentation. So in total there was an 18 to 22 days cuvaison. There was also greater stem addition this year up to 30% and these were covered in the vat with de-stemmed berries.” I must confess that I found the range of wines from this historic producer a little inconsistent, in particular with regard to the reds that lacked the depth, fruit concentration, the panache of the more impressive 2012s last year. That is to be expected given the growing season. Matters improved once we began broaching the whites and especially around Puligny. Bouchard’s Puligny Combettes is as good as anything I tasted from that premier cru during my travels, likewise their Meursault Perrières: both excellent examples. My advice is to tread carefully in 2013. There are certainly some gems, but also wines that I suspect will be overshadowed by the 2012 and the forthcoming 2014s. | eRobertParker.com.December, 2014
Bouchard Père & Fils is one of Burgundy’s most important houses, and the largest vineyard holder in the Côte d’Or with 130 hectares of vineyards. It’s holdings include 12 hectares of grand cru vineyards, with significant plots in Corton and Corton-Charlemagne, Le Montrachet and Chevalier-Montrachet. It holds more than 70 hectares of premier cru vineyards, most of which are in the Côte de Beaune, including one of Beaune’s most famous wines: Beaune Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus.
The company is owned by the Henriot group, which took over in 1995. Run from their impressive headquarters in Beaune, Bouchard has been making better and better wines in the past twenty years, and can be considered a benchmark producer of both red and white Burgundy.
Bouchard’s holdings in Chevalier-Montrachet are their jewel, and they hold Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte in its entirety. This vineyard sits just above Bouchard’s holding of Le Montrachet, and is one of the finest examples of Chardonnay. The house also has grand cru holdings in Chambertin, Clos de Vougeot, Echézeaux and Bonne Mares in the Côte de Nuits.
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