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Average critic rating : 92.0 points
The 2013 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru was picked on October 3 from their tiny 0.15 hectare parcel of 60+-year-old vines parked in the top left-hand corner. There are just two barrels this year. It has a precise and delineated bouquet with superb minerality. The palate is tense on the entry, harmonious and poised and though not the deepest Chevalier '13 in the making, it does have a beguiling marine influence toward the finish. Classy.||Both proprietor Edouard Labruyère and winemaker Nadine Gublot escorted me through their 2013s at the domaine this year. "Jacques Prieur has 21 hectares of vine," Edouard told me. "We lost 10 hectares to hail in 2014. Much of Volnay, Pommard and Beaune were completely devastated, with damage also inflicted in Meursault and Puligny Combettes. It seems that there is a path from Beaune and Pommard where a storm comes every year. The cannons were aimed to come from the Massif Central, but the storms came from the south. However, it seems to have worked in other places such as the Cote Châlonnais." Edouard mentioned that personally he would like to see some use of protective nets allowed, a view shared by many that I spoke to. "The hail was worse in 2013 than 2012. In 2013, we experienced the same hail damage on 23 July that destroyed 100% of Pommard, a large part of Volnay and to a lesser impact in Beaune. In 2013, we lost 6 hectares out of 21 hectares. Our team went into the vineyard, spraying some products to help the vineyard recover, but whether it has an impact, I am not sure. We treated the vineyard as if nothing happened, in a normal way to protect from mildew, oidium. We started picking 2 October with the Chardonnay, the Pinot Noir four days later finishing with the Volnay Champans on 12 October. Sometimes we use whole bunch, but it was not possible in 2013 because of the quantity." Like other growers with a large portfolio of holdings, not everything worked in 2013, because of the adverse conditions, so you have to winnow the wheat from the chaff. Some of the Volnay wines were disorientated and compromised by the poor flowering and hail damage, while others shrugged it off. Some of the Grand Crus, especially the Chambertin, left something to be desired while Charmes-Chambertin is an absolute gem. eRobertParker.com.December, 2014
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