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Average critic rating : 91.0 points
The 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru les Baudines has a more resinous, waxy bouquet compared to the Champ Gain, with touches of apple peel and fresh pear coming through later. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, vibrant citric fruit and a dash of lemongrass lending spice to the finish that just misses a little persistence at the moment. ||As usual, I tasted Pierre-Yves Colin’s 2013s in his tasting room close to the church in Chassagne. He was very positive about the vintage, though it was one where he had to make some big decisions during the vinification… |“I stopped part of the malolactic in each cuvee around 20 to 30% to keep the acidity by adding a bit of sulfur before the malo,” he explained. “The wines were a little too big for me.”|Pierre-Yves was not the only winemaker to take such action. Frédéric Barnier did likewise at Louis Jadot. |“My perception of 2013 is not a good memory. It was hard work in the vineyard,” he continued. “It was a wet spring so we had to spray more often. It was difficult to get clean fruit, but the weather then gave us that…not over-ripe fruit though. The harvest began in 1 October. Our level of maturity was not very high and so everything was picked between 11.5 and 12.4% potential. I did quite a long press for 3 to 4 hours with no foullage [crushing] when the fruit went into the press. The vintage is not very powerful, but you really have the expression of terroir more than the vintage, such as in 2012. The wines tend to be fresh and it is more my style of vintage compared to 2012. They remind me a little of ’07, even if I do not know if they will age in the same way.” ||Pierre-Yves’s wines have become highly sought-after in recent vintages and in many ways it is a totem of Burgundy’s move towards more micro-négoçiant set-ups. Where once the mantra was that you have to own your own vines, nowadays wines such as Pierre-Yves debunk that theory, which is good news because the salient fact is that some of the most talented winemakers can no longer afford the escalating land prices. One other piece of good news of PYCM lovers is that he has expanded his range with some fermage agreements courtesy of his aunt (I have noted this in the tasting notes.) Not every single 2013 is a shoo-in success…this is Burgundy after all. I feel that Pierre-Yves really comes into his own around Saint Aubin, with some of the best expressions of this under-appreciated appellation, whilst his Bâtard-Montrachet 2013 was an absolute treasure. It is interesting to muse upon the fact that both Pierre-Yves and his brothers Damien and Joseph at Domaine Marc Colin, are producing some of the best wines in Côte de Beaune. I never asked how competitive they are, but that drive towards quality is a blessing to all us wine-lovers.| eRobertParker.com.December, 2014
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