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Average critic rating : 94.0 points
Fruitcake again pops into mind when one smells Serafin's 2006 Charmes-Chambertin, featuring sweet dried berries, plums, candied citrus rind, brown spices, and roasted meat. Hints of vanilla and maple syrup suggest a harmonious contribution from barrel. This spreads a seamlessly-tannin, plush carpet of flavors across the palate, with uncommon depth as well as carnal intrigue. I can understand why Serafin compares it with the corresponding 1997, since he quickly adds that he thinks this is better. Indeed, I think the underlying structure and concentration here – unlike what proved true of most 1997s – counsel 3-4 years of cellaring before planning to enjoy over the subsequent half a dozen or more. ||Vineyard manicure and green harvesting – to hear Christian Serafin tell it – were keys to success in 2006, and he managed to achieve very ripe results. Fascinatingly, these include both wines that are quintessentially 2006, and some that seem destined to capture a combination of structure and energy reminiscent of 2005. Serafin, by the way, is a grower who explicitly recognizes the challenges in steering a course between concentration and elegance, rather than taking the latter for granted as part of his and his vines' birthright. Wine Advocate.December, 2009
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