1993 Chambolle Musigny Les Charmes Domaine Ponsot

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Average critic rating : 91.0 points



The terrific Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes offers great ripeness (atypical for a 1993), fabulous opulence, and that voluptuous, plush texture that is rarely seen in the 1993 vintage. The wine's finish lasts for over a minute. There are gobs of fruit in this extraordinarily rich, complex, aromatic wine. Although there is plenty of tannin, it is nearly concealed by the wine's extraction. Give it 2-3 years in the cellar and drink it over the following 20. While I am a great believer that low yielding, highly concentrated Pinot Noir deserves plenty of toasty new oak, there is not one new oak barrel to be found in Ponsot's cellar. The average age of the barrels is between 30-60 years, thus proving that there is at least one exception to the rule that the greatest red Burgundies are kept in new oak casks!|Note: Ponsot also makes and bottles wines for the Domaine des Chezeaux.|The good news is that Ponsot's 1993s are spectacular wines, as stunning as his prodigious 1990s. The bad news is that his yields were minuscule, with the average for all his vineyards approximately 20 hectoliters per hectare, or just over one ton per acre. For some of the grand crus, yields were so tiny that the number of cases that will make it to America is preposterously low. For example, yields for the Clos St.-Denis vineyard were 8 hectoliters per hectare, for Clos de la Roche, 18 hectoliters per hectare, and for Griotte-Chambertin, 23 hectoliters per hectare. Laurent Ponsot stated that only 48 bottles of Chambertin were allocated to America, 24 bottles of Clos St.-Denis (only 400 bottles were produced), and less than 30 cases of Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes. It is not that the United States is getting screwed in the allocation system, but just that so little wine was produced. My reviews are, therefore, largely of academic interest.|Importer: Vineyard Brands, Chester, VT; tel. (802) 875-2139 Wine Advocate.August, 1995

Based in Morey St Denis, Domaine Ponsot is one of the most important producers in the Côte de Nuits. The domaine has holdings in the Chambertin grands crus and a significant parcel of Clos de la Roche. Most of the remaining holdings are in Morey St Denis, including the unique Clos des Monts Luisants: a white wine made from Aligoté vines planted more than 100 years ago.

Run by Laurent Ponsot since the early 1980s, the wines offer an idiosyncratic expression of excellent Pinot Noir: often difficult in their youth, Ponsot wines have a habit of blossoming with age and, at full maturity, can be breath-taking in their finesse and complexity.

Domaine Ponsot is the largest holder of the grand cru Clos de La Roche, with the Vieilles Vignes Cuvée one of the legendary wines of the Côte de Nuits. In neighbouring Clos St Denis, the vines are now more than 100 years old and the wine is labelled “trés vielles vignes”. As is typical with Clos St Denis, this offers a richer, more powerful expression of Pinot Noir than the more lifted and ethereal Clos de la Roche. Along with Domaine Dujac, Ponsot is the leading producer in these two vineyards.

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