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Average critic rating : 91.0 points
The 2013 Chambolle Musigny Derriere la Grang, which comes from 0.36 hectares of vine and this year contains 10% whole bunch, has a more austere bouquet compared to les Charmes or les Plantes and demands more coaxing from the glass. It has a silky smooth texture, very feminine, and perhaps the most sensual of the domaine’s ‘13s, though I just prefer the mineralité expressed by the les Plantes on the finish. You cannot resist that texture though. ||I resolved to visit Domaine Amiot-Servelle for the first time after the splendid showing of their Chambolle Amoureuses 2011 at the blind horizontal tasting in Holland back in June. Prune Amiot (who bares a faint semblance to our very own Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW) greeted me at her parents’ home. The family actually owns three buildings in the village and so I hopped into Prune’s car so that we could taste at their barrel cellar where her father Christian met us. Christian, tall and bearded and looking nothing like Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, is the son of Pierre Amiot who married Elisabeth Servelle in 1975, subsequently working at her father's domaine (Servelle-Tachot) up until his passing in 1989, renaming the property "Amiot-Servelle" thereafter. Their portfolio was expanded with the addition of two grand crus (Charmes-Chambertin and Clos Saint Denis) that had been leased to Christian's brothers. The family presides over an enviable portfolio that obviously centers around Chambolle with choice premier crus and a couple of grand crus thrown in for good measure. They converted their vineyards to organic in 2003 and biodynamic back in 2008 and their winemaking tenets are fairly straightforward with partial whole-bunch fruit used depending on each cuvée. In 2013, they harvested from October 5 until around October 10, and used a gentle remontage during cuvaison. There is modest use of oak, perhaps a little higher this year due to the lower than normal crop. Quantities are small with some Chambolle premier crus limited to just two barrels, often one new and one used. ||After that impressive Amoureuses ’11 back in Holland (see issue 214), I was hoping that their 2013s would meet my high expectations–and they did. Big time. They demonstrated immense purity of fruit, superb terroir expression, perhaps firmer in the mouth and imbued with a sense of nascent energy and tension that I gauge as a positive attribute during barrel tastings. Stylistically, they reminded me of Christophe Perrot-Minot (whose vines neighbor their Charmes-Chambertin) or Cyprién Arlaud, the fruit is a little blacker than their peers, often with attractive confit-like aromas. Their wines were so good I made a detour back to that rarest of Burgundy commodities, their cellar door, to buy a bottle of Chambolle Charmes ’12 – putting my money where my opinion is. Like Hudelot-Baillet, just over the road, Prune represents the new generation of winemakers who, let’s face it, offer an affordable alternative to its more illustrious domaines without stinting on quality. I look forward to returning in the future and picking up a few more bottles. eRobertParker.com.January, 2015
Christian and Elisabeth Servelle run Domaine Amiot-Servelle, which consists of seven hectares of vineyard that have been organically farmed since 2003. The main appellations that they work in are Chambolle Musigny and Clos Vougeot but they also produce village wines. Vinification is uses traditional methods, with destemmed grapes going into temperature controlled open wood vats, with cold maceration over a minimum of two weeks. Maturation takes around 18 months in oak barrels that have been partly refreshed each year depending on which appellation is to be aged. Village Pinot Noir used 15% new oak, Chambolle-Musigny uses 20%, 1er Cru use 30% and Grand Cru wines receive up to 50%.
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