2013 Chambolle Musigny Jean-Jacques Confuron



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Average critic rating : 86.0 points

85-87

85-87

The 2013 Chambolle-Musigny Village was raised 30% in new oak and that is articulated by the aromatics that feel just a little oppressed by the wood at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with sweet black cherry and dark plum fruit, fine acidity but again, I feel the new oak is dictatorial on the finish. ||Alain Meunier greeted me at his domaine opposite Domaine de l’Arlot in Premaux Prissey, forgiving my tardiness having sped down from up in the Hautes Côtes (I had been told the location of the only restaurant where you can buy Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s unicorn wine, their Hautes Côtes de Nuits Blanc off a list…I mean, how would you spend your lunchtime?) Alain told me that he started the harvest at the beginning of October and faced a depleted crop because of the flowering, some 40% down for the year. The malolactics finished the end of July, so that’s not as tardy as some other growers. Keeping true to the style of the domaine, there is a generous use of new oak here. Even the generic red Burgundy benevolently receives 20% new oak, 100% for the flagship Romanée-Saint-Vivant. I felt it worked better for some more than others in 2013, that let’s not forget, did not bestow vignerons with the power and substance of the previous year. Occasionally, the new oak seemed to obstruct the terroir expression and at other times, such as the Nuits Saint Georges Boudots, it was beautifully interwoven into the fruit. In 2013 at this address, that fruit is resolutely on the black rather than the red side of the color spectrum. While they do not quite match the outstanding 2012s that I tasted last year, these are still well-crafted wines, especially for those that prefer what you might call a more modern style of Burgundy wine. Confuron’s wines are sleek and, you might say, sexy. There’s nothing wrong with that. N.B. The Vosne Romanée les Beaux Monts that had just been racked and was inappropriate for tasting. eRobertParker.com.December, 2014

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