2012 Chambertin Denis Mortet



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£531.00

Average critic rating : 97.0 points

96-98

96-98

There are two new barrels of the 2012 Chambertin Grand Cru this year. It comes from a single parcel of 0.15-hectares next to David Duband and Jean-Louis Trapet. It has a beguiling bouquet with dark cherries, forest floor, hints of bergamot and bay leaf, opening with time in the glass to reveal wonderful mineralite. The palate is medium-bodied with an opening that shimmers in the mouth. This is very harmonious and filled with nervosite and energy. It is more understated than say, Bernard Dugat’s Chambertin, erring more towards Rousseau in style. This will be hard to find, but you will have one exquisite wine if you do track one down.||Things are certainly changing at this domaine. When Arnaud took over I felt that the level of new oak was excessive, superfluous to requirements given the fruit bestowed by his family’s prodigious holdings. And he was refreshingly candid about this when we sat down in his offices to taste through his 2012s, where he told me that he is now dialing down the new oak in order to express the terroir. That said, there is still more new wood here that say, Armand Rousseau just round the corner, but tasting through these 2012s I would say that the wood is better assimilated than previous vintage and yes, the terroir does shine through. “The harvest began on 23 September,” Arnaud explained. “It lasted for about 9 days in Gevrey and then finishing off with the Bourgogne Rouge. We had a lot of millerandage. Everything was de-stemmed this year. We left the wine on its lees in barrel and might sulfur in two or three months. We’ll also transfer the wine in to stainless steel to marry everything together. But the end result is that we are about 40% down on average.” eRobertParker.com.December, 2013

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