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Average critic rating : 93.0 points
The Boillot 2008 Chambertin – from high up on the cru, protected from hail by the forest, but demanding long hang-time, he reports – is scented with smoky Lapsang tea, peat, and licorice; rich in roasted red meats and black fruits; expansive and palate-staining. There is no place – for now at least, it seems – in this Chambertin for fine floral perfume or elegance; it is a robust, carnal, and densely-fruited rendition. Firmly but finely tannic, its cherry pit, chalk, and stone finishing notes convey a certain austerity but this merely sets off the richness of the whole, and there is an unstoppable torrent of fresh fruit juiciness throughout. This should be worth cellaring for 15-20 years, and would probably best be left in peace for the first half dozen. ||In 2008, Henri Boillot both expanded his domaine and became ambitious qua negociant with Pinot. In the latter capacity, he looks for contracts where he can exercise control over the farming, so that, for example, all of the 2008s – he reports – were cropped at less than 20 hectoliters per hectare and picked very late. Unorthodoxly (for Burgundy, at least) Boillot pressed many of his reds early to let them complete fermentation in barrel. His malos were late but not dramatically so, finishing in August, and most of the wines were bottled in February, a few earlier. (I tasted several 2007 reds from Boillot, but too early-on to adequately assess, and I have not had time to revisit that collection.)||Various importers Wine Advocate.June, 2010
Since taking full control of the family estate, Domaine Jean Boillot, in 2005, winemaker Henri Boillot has become renowned for the sheer quality of his wines, made using vines which are more than 60 years old. He renamed the estate Domaine Henri Boillot soon after taking it over to eliminate confusion with his brother’s estate, Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot.Boillot’s negociant arm, Maison Henri Boillot, is a benchmark producer of French estate wines which are outstanding examples of some of the Cote d-Or's most prestigious crus. From village-style Meursaults to Le Montrachet, Boillot’s wines have an intense minerality and are structured, linear and ageworthy. Although Henri does not own the vineyards from which his grapes are sourced, he farms them as meticulously as his own and uses the same methods to make the wines.
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