2012 Chablis Montmains (Domaine) William Fevre



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Average critic rating : 89.25 points

90-92

90-92

An airy, elegant and very pure nose offers up notes of ocean breeze, algae, green fruit and floral scents. There is excellent concentration but also fine vibrancy to the well-detailed medium weight flavors that ooze an appealing minerality on the tautly muscular and dry but not especially austere finish. This is a beauty. Tasted: Oct 15, 2013. Drink: 2018+

87-88

87-88

Raised in a combination of barrel and tank (whence I tasted it, post-assemblage), the Fevre 2012 Chablis Montmains Maison Fevre – from purchased fruit from Forets and (true) Montmains – delivers ripe pear and lime with prominence of their skins and pips in a display of density allied to tart brightness and crisp ripeness. This relatively austere though invigorating bottling may well gain some textural allure and depth of flavor with time in bottle, but I would, nonetheless, be inclined to plan on consuming it by 2016. ||Didier Seguier and his team (consult previous Wine Advocate reports on Chablis for much more about their strikingly successful methods) began picking already on September 20, 2012 and, with allowance for two days break due to rain, finished on October 2. Yields, especially in the upper classificatory echelons, were low – typically between 28 and 35 hectoliters per hectare (though in one instance a mere 18!) depending on cru. “The wines,” says Seguier – who’s obviously very bullish on them – “are consequently ripe, concentrated, and plenty rich, with natural alcohol between 12.8-13.2% and acidity as ample as that of 2010. They have the same level of minerality as the 2010s, too, but are even a little more concentrated.” While the 2011 harvest here – which began already at the end of August – broke all but 2003’s record, Seguier was at pains to point out that this is virtually where the similarities between those two vintages end, and that indeed, it was 2012, not 2011, that brought extreme heat – though then only in mid-August. Most of the Fevre 2012s did not finish malo until May, which Seguier attributes to the musts’ low pHs, a feature he points to as an index of their relatively high – hence felicitous – ratio of tartaric to malic acids. The premier crus were set to be bottled through the autumn; the grand crus in December or January. Fevre is completing the process of converting its grand crus to a biodynamic viticultural regimen and will soon commence that transition on the Left Bank. (Based on quite consistent pricing in recent years, I have taken the liberty of inserting retail benchmarks based on other recent vintages, which also permits readers to see which Fevre bottlings are typically offered stateside.) Wine Advocate.August, 2013

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