2008 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre William Fevre



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£392.00

Average critic rating : 93.0 points

92-94

92-94

A discreet touch of wood sets pure, elegant and airy floral and spice aromas that are in perfect keeping with the racy, energetic and classy medium weight plus flavors that possess excellent depth as well as superb length. This delivers grand cru quality. Allen Meadows, Burghound 01/10/2009

93

93

From Fevre sites that had to recover from harsh hailing in 2007, their 2008 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre delivers salty, herbed chicken stock aromas and flavors such as only these Kimmeridgian soils seem capable of engendering in vinous form, mingled with tart yet luscious fresh lime and red currant. The higher, southeast-facing Pied d’Aloue contributes finesse, opines Didier Seguier, while the two-thirds share from southwesterly exposed Chapelot just below supplies depth of mineral character. The combination of citrus and berry generosity with striking salinity and carnal depth as well as a vibratory sense of finishing energy epitomize the outstanding potential of its vintage. Expect this to be worth following for the better part of a decade if not longer. ||The 2008 collection fielded by Didier Seguier and his team maintains their recent streak of excellence, but in a reversal of vintage typicity, seems, if anything, more dominated by its acidity and minerality than the 2007s, and less effusive than many of its vintage. Between poor flowering and dehydration, the crop was down around 20% in 2008 even from that of its hail-trimmed predecessor. The wines as usual were racked from barrel after malo (which this year, meant in April); some were bottled during the summer but the grand crus and most of the premier crus were bottled last November and December. Several of the wines that I tasted (noted in the text, and of course labeled without the word “domaine”) incorporate purchased fruit, but beginning with this vintage, the Fevre team not only calls the shots but does the picking for all of the grapes that inform wines labeled with their name. Like Hugel in Alsace, Fevre has been impressed enough with the new generation of DIAM composite corks to adopt them for a majority of their bottlings, in fact with this vintage for everything save grand cru – so let’s hope their confidence is well-placed! It perhaps also bears repeating that in my opinion there isn’t a track record for aging yet that one can apply to Fevre’s last three collections, the quality having improved too much to extrapolate with any reliably from previous vintages, so please take my prognoses as intuitive hunches. Wine Advocate.October, 2010

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