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Average critic rating : 93.5 points
Toasted nuts and lemon oil in the nose of the Raveneau 2007 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre (whose quantities were drastically reduced by hail) put one in mind of the Cote d’Or. But from that point on, it turns in a direction not possible anywhere other than Chablis. Honey, citrus oil, and fresh ginger reinforce an impression of bitter-sweetness on the palate, along with suggestions of musk, crustacean reduction, and brine. This finishes with electric vivacity and implacable grip, the sharp concentration of ginger, iodine, lemon zest, and white pepper creating a memorable sense of vibrancy. One should be able to marvel at this for 10-12 years. ||Bernard Raveneau views his bright, mineral-inflected 2007s – picked from September 10-16 – as potentially richer versions of 2004, since the former, he indicates, have gained in textural allure during their elevage. That also explains why he did not plan to bottle most of these 2007s until late spring or summer, and I have accordingly not tasted them since bottling. (Incidentally, Raveneau is very excited and intrigued by his 2008s, wines with an effusion of floral and herbal youthful aromatics that he says he has never before encountered, but whose finished results he speculated might combine aspects of 2006 and 2007.) Wine Advocate.December, 2009
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