2011 Chablis Mont de Milieu Billaud Simon

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Average critic rating : 90.0 points



The ripe and ever-so-mildly exotic nose displays aromas of yellow orchard fruit as well as grapefruit that introduce very rich, generous and fleshy flavors that possess fine volume but retain a lovely sense of refinement. There is a seductive texture thanks to the abundant dry extract, all wrapped in a wonderfully layered, very dry and highly persistent finish. The dry extract will also permit this to be approachable young though there is very good mid-term cellar potential. Tasted: Oct 15, 2013. Drink: 2018+



Rendered just under half in barrique and from vines planed in 1952, the Billaud-Simon 2011 Chablis Mont-de-Milieu Vieilles Vignes displays resinous, pitchy aromatic overtones as the scents of wood get on top of those one would otherwise expect. Apple and lemon with bitter hints of pip and an oily, pungent textural adjunct fortunately preserve a certain amount of fresh fruit through a finish that sizzles with impingements of citrus oil and pips, radish and resin. I would plan on drinking this within the next couple of years, being skeptical as to whether the primary juiciness will long prevail. ||When I last visited Bernard Billaud on a June day for my issue 191 report focusing on vintage 2008, he agreed for the first time to show me his young grand crus in advance of bottling and alongside the premier crus that I was used to tasting at that season of the year. Unfortunately, he made emphatically clear on this most recent occasion that such would not be the case; indeed, I was not offered any of the 2012s to taste, but instead the full 2011 collection, and a report on Billaud-Simon’s 2012 will have to wait for next year, before which, in any case, they will not have been put on the market. (In keeping with existing conventions at The Wine Advocate – and seeing that there are modes of vinification in common and only one overlap in cru designations – I have not indicated as part of each wine’s description whether or not it relies entirely on domaine as opposed to contract fruit.)||Imported by Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900 Wine Advocate.August, 2013


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