2011 Chablis Les Forets Domaine Raveneau



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Average critic rating : 90.0 points

90

90

Not surprisingly this offers a big step up in aromatic complexity with its fresh and cool nose of citrus, white peach and soft floral scents. There is plenty of underlying tension to the precise, intense and mineral-inflected flavors that possess good balance and much better depth and length. This understated effort should amply reward 5 to 7 years of cellar time. Tasted: Oct 15, 2013. Drink: 2017+

90

90

The Raveneau 2011 Chablis La Foret – like their village Chablis, bottled early this year, several months ahead of the estate’s other premier crus – is surprisingly marked by lanolin and resin notes attributable to oak. But abundant fresh lime and apple mingle with alkaline and saline marine elements for a performance both satisfyingly juicy and – at least incipiently – intriguingly mineral, not to mention impressively persistent. Pending a more encouraging interim report – and I am surprised not to be more impressed by what I have just tasted – I would have to tentatively suggest that one plan on enjoying this by 2016. ||There is something disconcerting about stepping from their old cellar into the vaulted, spare stone and concrete expanse that now houses most of Bernard and Isabelle Raveneau’s barrels, but I have no doubt that the spaciousness of this new arrangement will have its subtle, positive influence on quality at what many would peg as the foremost estate in Chablis. And while I try to refrain from mentioning coopers by name (and in all but rare instances – with French tonneliers, anyway – succeed), I would simply point out that a comparison of the older and more recent barrels at this estate encourages me in the belief that changes taking place in that department, too, will only enhance quality. Bernard Raveneau describes 2012 as affording “lovely acidity and equilibrium,” and I do not doubt that its fruits at this address will uphold a reputation for improving in bottle and avoiding the premature oxidation that confounds wine lovers’ hopes for even some renowned and youthfully impressive Chablis. (Since it applies to all of my reviews of Raveneau’s 2012s, I suggest consulting my explanation in the introduction to this report of just how I utilize “+?” in rating wines before bottling.) Wine Advocate.August, 2013

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