2011 Chablis Les Clos Domaine Raveneau



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£331.00

Average critic rating : 94.5 points

95

95

In contrast to the expressiveness of the prior wines this is much more aromatically reserved with only grudging hints of white flower, pear, peach and plenty of classic Chablis character in evidence. The palate impression though is one of big-bodied and intensely mineral-driven flavors that exude copious amounts of dry extract that buffers the moderately firm acid spine on the very dry finish. As it usually is, this is stunningly good and should also reward up to a decade of cellar time. Tasted: Oct 15, 2013. Drink: 2021+

94

94

Fusil and chalk dust notes rise from the glass of Raveneau’s 2011 Chablis Les Clos, along with scents of grapefruit and lemon that presage a juicy, bright and – especially for youthful wine from this formidable site – surprisingly succulent palate impression. There is greater density but little additional sense of weight here vis-a-vis its two grand cru siblings in the present collection, and there is a transparency to marine mineral nuances as well as a cut, energy and sheer persistence to the finish that set this fine effort apart, and mark it as one likely to be worth following through at least 2025. ||There is something disconcerting about stepping from their old cellar into the vaulted, spare stone and concrete expanse that now houses most of Bernard and Isabelle Raveneau’s barrels, but I have no doubt that the spaciousness of this new arrangement will have its subtle, positive influence on quality at what many would peg as the foremost estate in Chablis. And while I try to refrain from mentioning coopers by name (and in all but rare instances – with French tonneliers, anyway – succeed), I would simply point out that a comparison of the older and more recent barrels at this estate encourages me in the belief that changes taking place in that department, too, will only enhance quality. Bernard Raveneau describes 2012 as affording “lovely acidity and equilibrium,” and I do not doubt that its fruits at this address will uphold a reputation for improving in bottle and avoiding the premature oxidation that confounds wine lovers’ hopes for even some renowned and youthfully impressive Chablis. (Since it applies to all of my reviews of Raveneau’s 2012s, I suggest consulting my explanation in the introduction to this report of just how I utilize “+?” in rating wines before bottling.) Wine Advocate.August, 2013

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