0 immediate, 6 marketplace
Average critic rating : 88.0 points
The 2013 Chablis Village has a crisp, gun flint bouquet that is nicely defined. The palate is fresh on the entry with light apricot and orange zest notes, just a touch of salinity entering toward the brisk 'n' breezy finish. Approachable, but well made, enjoy this over the next 3 or 4 years. ||Fabien and his father Guy Moreau were there to greet me on what was my final visit during my week in Chablis. We sought refuge from the scorching temperatures in their air conditioned vat-room where I was poured the bottled 2013s and 2014s due for bottling later this year. That was actually one of the first points of our long conversation. Christian Moreau was adamant that the 2014s deserve longer aging in barrel and derided those that rushed to bottle them in order to compensate any shortfall in 2013. I would agree. ||Anyway, we commenced not with 2014 but the bottled 2013s. I asked Fabien whether they had changed since I ran through them last year and he opined that they felt "less tropical" after bottling." "In 2013, the challenge was to avoid botrytis and tropical flavors, so they made the wines in a more reductive way. "When you have botrytis, it is more sensible to do more oxidation to take down the CO2, but I wanted to avoid that," he told me. Naturally, the 2013s required rigorous sorting upon entering the winery and Christian told me that approximately 15% of the fruit was discarded at this point.||I was impressed by the 2013s last year and I concur that they have an appealing terroir-driven streak to them relative to other growers that tended to feel a little "flabby." While the 2014s are better, the 2013s will offer plenty of early drinking pleasure, especially the likes of the Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons "Guy Moreau" and my pick of their grand crus in Vaudésir. ||We then moved onto the 2014s. "We began the harvest on September 15," Fabien began, "but unusually we then stopped. The problem was that the vines were quite stressed. We saw that the acidity levels were high and the sugar level were not moving apart from very old or young vineyards. So we waited and then recommenced picking in vineyard such as Le Clos from around 23 September. By waiting, we found that we had gained 10% in juice, which had been reduced by the thick skins, and 2.5 grams per liter less acidity. So in the end, when we were expecting a yields of 55 hectoliters per hectare, we only got 43 hectoliters per hectare. At least we didn't have botrytis pressure like in 2013. 2014 was more a question of maturity."||The 2014s formed a suitable end to a profitable week in Chablis, finishing on a high note. They typify the vintage: fresh, mineral-driven and tensile, what you might call "real Chablis." In particular the Blanchots was "killer Chablis," a brilliant Grand Cru in the making, closely followed by "Les Clos." There wines brimmed over with energy, pocket dynamos that are going to light up dinner tables down the years because I am sure there will be long-lived. Christian has allowed his son just to go and make the kind of Chablis he wants to make, not to follow any fads of trends. His skill lies both in the vineyard husbandry, advantaged by the fact that half his labels are Grand Crus, but also his astute use of barrel aging in the winery, each cru vinified in oak barrel and stainless steel for around six months before blending them together and finishing them off in the latter. So the wood component is there, but extremely discrete. Their wines come highly recommended.||(NB Recommended retail prices are correct for the 2013s. Prices for 2014 have not been firmly set, though I was informed that they should be a little lower than 2013 due to the more favorable exchange rate.) eRobertParker.com.August, 2015
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