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Average critic rating : 92.0 points
The elder statesman and brilliant winemaker, Englishman Philip Togni, who lives in splendid isolation high on Spring Mountain, not far from the Sonoma County line, has made this blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot from his steep home estate. Aged 20 months in about 40% new French oak (which seems like a smaller percentage than I recall when I was visiting him), the wine is dense ruby/purple, firm and slightly austere. Bordeaux-like, it has a nose of graphite, blackcurrants, forest floor and spice box. Medium to full-bodied, it still possesses moderate tannins that need to be shed, but offers outstanding purity and loads of personality. Togni was trained in Bordeaux, and there’s no question that he applies his classic winemaking style to the beautiful fruit he obtains from his Spring Mountain estate. I’ve been an enthusiastic purchaser of many of his vintages, starting in the mid-1980s and working right through most of the vintages of the 1990s. As impenetrable, backward and austere as they seem in their youth, theses wines are guaranteed to be hugely successful after about 15-20 years of bottle age. At ten years of age, the Togni 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon is still a baby, and one of the youngest wines I tasted. While most 2005s are showing beautifully, with admirable freshness across the board, but this one is a baby to put to sleep for another five years. ||Philip Togni Vineyard, Tel. (707) 963-3731 eRobertParker.com.June, 2015
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