2013 Bourgogne Rouge Hubert Lignier

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Average critic rating : 86.0 points



The 2013 Bourgogne, which Laurent Lignier told me underwent a late malolactic in used barrels, has a ripe, tertiary-scented bouquet with a light but nicely balanced palate that should offer rounded mulberry fruit and drink well over the next 3-4 years. Perfectly pleasant though not remarkable.||Before we entered the Lignier's gîte that imposes upon the courtyard, Laurent showed me around their renovated cellars built to accommodate their expanding portfolio, partly from fermage agreements entered into by Laurent and partly from the resolution of the court case with his late brother's widow. The space was much needed. When I visited last year things were becoming cramped in the cellar, but having excavated underneath the vat-room there's now sufficient space for their expanding portfolio and also to allow the wine to be transferred from vat to barrel by gravity. This is a domaine moving forward after a tumultuous few years. The constant in all this is Hubert Lignier whose first vintage was 1959 (just feel his calloused hands if you don’t believe me.). He appears to have decided not to age every time I see him, which is great to see. Hubert joined us as we tasted through both their 2013s and their bottled 2012s, which will appear in a separate report. ||Laurent told me that they commenced the harvest on October 6, picking their jewel in the crown Clos de la Roche the following day, the secateurs sheathed again on October 12. I have rhapsodized their wines in recent vintage and in my opinion they have moved up to within the top tier of the Côte de Nuits. Being able to juxtapose the two vintages, as I expected, the 2012s are bridled with more precision and complexity, but that is not to say that 2013 has its own gems. Probably toward the village cru and "lesser" premier cru end the growing season has impacted upon the quality of wines, but even here readers should not overlook their outstanding Morey-Saint-Denis Vieilles Vignes. As always, Lignier’s wines personify Burgundy: wines reflective of both their terroirs and of the growing season. You do not get the sense that Hubert or Laurent are trying to transcend the growing season, but articulate it within their wines. Quantities are very small so they can be difficult to track down at the top end, though readers should look out for extremely well-priced bottles in and around retail shops in Beaune (I always pick up a bottle or two for myself.)| eRobertParker.com.December, 2014


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