2013 Bourgogne Rouge Meo-Camuzet

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Average critic rating : 84.0 points



The 2013 Bourgogne Rouge, which comes from two parcels supplemented by finished wine, has a closed nose while the palate is quite rustic at the moment with slightly hard tannins. It just needs to develop more flesh on the finish. This needs to pull its socks up by the time of bottling. ||Jean-Nicolas was away in Korea when I visited his domaine, a sign of how the popularity of Burgundy is now global (I did not inquire whether it was North or South.) So his assistant winemaker kindly escorted me through their portfolio (négoçiant and domaine) and the same leitmotifs of the 2013s were discussed: the high levels of malic acid and the need to chaptalize. The harvest here commenced on October 2 and finished around ten days later. Unlike others such as Cécile Tremblay, they did not eschew pigeage completely, and conducted around four or five to extract color and tannins. As usual, the malolactics were very late and in fact, one or two of them were still continuing, which explains a couple of omissions in my notes. Apparently, they showed plenty of reduction since the wines was unable to be racked and therefore work in the cellar during the second winter is important. ||This address consistently produces excellent wines, though I found the 2013s a little more difficult to get a handle on vis-à-vis other growers. Of the two “jewels," I just have a preference for their Cros Parantoux over their Richebourg, the former displaying exceptional delineation, razor-sharp tannins and an unfathomable depth that riveted you to the spot, whereas the latter was broad-shouldered, regal but less opaque. Elsewhere, the wines felt just a little disjointed at this early stage and need to knit together their constituent parts by the time of bottling next year.| eRobertParker.com.December, 2014

Meo-Camuzet: The Importance

For John Gilman: “the Méo-Camuzet wines are amongst the most profound in all of Burgundy" and has dubbed the owner Jean-Nicolas Méo “the only real successor to Henri Jayer.” Gilman is not the only critic to be “consistently impressed” at this address, which according to Neal Martin “consistently produces excellent wines.” Antonio Galloni professes to be “overall, a big fan” of the wines in recent vintages. Stephen Brook makes no secret of his love for the Méo-Camuzet property “and its superlative wines”, and the regular Burgundy reviewers drive a fierce demand for these wines by awarding high scores year in, year out.


As a result supply is very short for these wines, despite what Meadows terms a “huge” three-hectare parcel in Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, and several other holdings in Vosne-Romanée described as “enviable” by Neal Martin.


Meo-Camuzet: The Insight

According to Neal Martin, the portfolio is “crowned by Richebourg Grand Cru and Cros Parantoux, the latter essentially grand cru in all but name thanks to the late Henri Jayer, who decided that vines might profit more from the land than a few veg.” Martin however allows himself the luxury to “have a preference for their Cros Parantoux over their Richebourg, the former displaying exceptional delineation, razor-sharp tannins and an unfathomable depth that riveted you to the spot, whereas the latter was broad-shouldered, regal but less opaque.” By contrast, Allen Meadows is an admirer of the Clos de Vougeot, noting that Méo-Camuzet is the second-largest owner here after Château de La Tour but rents out more than half the property, retaining only a top-grade parcel just below the Château.


In terms of Premier Crus, Corton Clos-Rognet Grand Cru is a monopoly of the domaine, admired by Clive Coates, who also notes them as one of the best producers of Chaumes, bottled as Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes Premier Cru. John Gilman finds the Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Feusselottes to be “outstanding.”


Meo-Camuzet: The Background

Jean-Nicolas Méo, “with his clean-cut good looks and penchant for formal clothing” noted by Stephen Brook arrived from Paris in the late 1980’s driven by a desire to bottle the family’s wines. Thereafter, John Gilman recounts how he “assembled at the domaine an outstanding team in the cellars and vineyards over the years,” gaining recogonition both from his neighbours in Vosne-Romanée and from regular visitors such as the critics mentioned above, as well as other experts such as Jasper Morris, who writes that “Jean-Nicolas Méo and Christian Faurois now run the Domaine and together they produce some of the very best wine in the Côte d'Or.”


Jean-Nicolas Méo was also among the most notable Burgundians to become a pioneer in the vineyards in Oregon, establishing the very well-regarded Nicolas-Jay operation in Williamette Valley, partnering with the music producer Jay Boberg.

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