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Average critic rating : 89.0 points
The 2013 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain l’Exception has a gorgeous, very pure bouquet that soars from the glass: red cherries, bergamot and just a hint of wilted rose petals. There is real exuberance from the glass. The palate is full of ripe Morello cherry and fresh strawberry notes, extremely well-judged acidity and a poised, vivacious finish that is difficult to resist drinking directly from barrel! ||I always look forward to my visit to Michel Lafarge in the maze-like alleys of Volnay. In many ways it encapsulates Burgundy: small domaine, choice parcels, great history, a loyal following, dank and claustrophobic vaulted cellars thickly smothered with white mold like something out of a 1974 episode of Dr. Who, a bit disheveled in appearance…untidy perhaps, charismatic bordering upon legendary patriarch and wines so exquisite that they make you want to quit and just go home with that sweet nectar tingling in your mouth. Michel Lafarge himself greeted me at the domaine. He must be over 80years old now but he was still happy to discuss the vintage until his son Frédéric came along (doubtlessly delayed by what must be Burgundy’s slowest elevator.) Frédéric absolutely loves 2013 and described how it was a long growing season after a humid and wet spring, one where the grapes reached phenolic ripeness at low sugar levels. “We picked from 3 until 9 October,” he explained. “The last time that we had picked in October was in 1980. It is difficult to compare with other vintages. There is ‘big’ purity and it is easy to see the terroir of each of the vineyards. There was little botrytis. We chaptalized by around 0.5 degrees alcohol and the reds finished their malolactic between April and May, the whites by July and then we racked at the end of August.” The bad news of Lafarge fans is that there is just…wait for it…35% of the normal harvest. Yikes. If it is of any consolation a) the wines are so pure and elegant that you feel as if you are peering into the very vines, wines that leave you with a Cheshire cat grin perhaps with the exception of the underpar (on the day) Volnay Mitans '13 and b) the family has just acquired 2.5-hectares in Fleurie, which I look forward to tasting next year. eRobertParker.com.December, 2014
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