2013 Bonnes Mares Comte de Vogue

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Average critic rating : 94.5 points



This is much more deeply pitched and even more reserved though aggressive swirling liberates a wonderfully complex array of plum and black raspberry liqueur-like aromas where added breadth is present in the form of spice, earth, pepper, dried flowers and a hint of underbrush. The dense, powerful and broad-shouldered flavors brim with dry extract that imparts a velvety mouth feel to the vibrant finale as well as pushes the very firm core of tannins to the background. This is a big but beautifully well-balanced wine that should amply reward up to 20 years of cellaring. Jan 2015, www.burghound.com, Drink: 2028+



The 2013 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a feisty bouquet with cracked black pepper sprinkled over the precocious red and black fruit. There is a sense of vivacity here – generous and exuberant. The palate is sorbet-fresh on the entry with blood orange interwoven through the red fruit, and a controlled spiciness gently wafting through the sappy, blueberry finish. Superb – stylish and intellectual – as I described this Bonnes-Mares from barrel last year. Dec 2015, www.robertparker.com, Drink: 2019-2040



(From the south-east corner so all terres rouges.) Pungent and concentrated. Lots of ‘minerality’. Masses of bumptious, almost gamey, fruit. Not massive in terms of alcohol but massive in terms of flavour. Great freshness – almost raw red-fruit character. Very fine tannins. Great texture. Real energy. Nov 2014, www.jancisrobinson.com, Drink: 2028-2050



Bright, dark red-ruby. Knockout nose combines black fruits, minerals, dark chocolate, clove and menthol. Dense, sappy and intense, boasting outstanding energy and lift to its almost painful flavors of blackberry and black cherry. There's a sweetness here but the wine is very closed today, finishing with a powerful tannic spine and superb vinosity ("in a somber style, almost a bit frightening," says winemaker Millet). 94+ Mar 2016, www.vinous.com, Drink: 2025-2038

Chambolle-Musigny has no shortage of stars though Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue is certainly the most aristocratic estate in the village, and the estate with the grandest holdings: de Vogue holds a whopping seven hectares of Musigny – almost three-quarters of the vineyard.

The domaine can trace its origins back to the 15th Century: that it is still intact is remarkable in itself, though its fame as a top producer came about after the Second World War, and it now sits comfortably at the top table of Burgundy’s great estates.

Le Musigny is obviously the jewel of the estate’s holdings: a parcel of the vineyard is planted to Chardonnay which, in theory, will one day be labelled as Musigny Blanc. For the moment the wine is declassified to Bourgogne Blanc on account of the youth of the vines; anyone lucky enough to have tasted this rarity will attest to its remarkable quality.

Other holdings include a significant parcel – 2.7 hectares – of Bonne Mares and just over half a hectare of Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureueses (a vineyard of grand cru quality if not status).

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