0 immediate, 3 marketplace
Average critic rating : 93.0 points
The 2013 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru is initially a moody bastard. But it opens gloriously with black cherries, blueberry and violet scents that are beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with firm ripe tannins. It is quite masculine and austere (especially for a Bonnes-Mares) with a closed but compelling finish. I suggest giving this serious decanting 3-5 hours before serving.||Mounir forewarned me that he has over 70 different cuvées in 2013, so I booked a whole afternoon in his soon-to-be-expanded cellar just off the Beaune ringroad. I did not taste quite the entire portfolio, but I must have come damn close. Mounir himself: garrulous, opinionated, candid and confident, gave me his own views on the vintage, his oratory reminiscent of François Mitjavile in Saint Emilion! “The 2013 vintage is a paradox that combines two things we normally see,” he commenced. “Low yields and extreme finesse. Today, it’s an old style of Burgundy. It has things that we haven’t seen since the mid-1990s. It’s the first vintage to be chaptalized in red and white for years and we are back to the OK level of alcohol. We were playing a bad card in the last 15 years. It’s around 13% max. Since the cold temperatures at the end of 2014, we started seeing the extreme details of every cru, the dry rose note in Clos de Bèze for example. We talk of a small crop, but we get the typicité of the cru. I think 2013 is one of the most beautiful vintages of the last ten years. It’s going to be pleasant and refreshing early but it is going to age fantastically. In 2013 there are two categories [of wine] – those that were racked and detracted from the freshness during the barrel aging and these will not be pure and detailed. But everything that is here has not been touched and nothing will be racked until spring and nothing bottled before August. Six months ago it was showing beauty but it was not deep, but now we are beginning to see the dry extract.” eRobertParker.com.June, 2015
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