2010 Bonnes Mares Comte de Vogue

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Average critic rating : 94.5 points



Not unexpectedly here the brooding and somber nose is completely different with a much greater emphasis on earth and smoked tea nuances on the darker hued fruit that includes cassis and black raspberry. The rich, powerful and impressively concentrated large-scaled flavors exhibit a sleek muscularity on the pure, balanced and gorgeously long finish. Like most of these 2010s, there is a serenity present here that allows the wines to unfold elegantly and coherently. This is a compact and quite forceful wine yet it delivers that power with no sense of weight or heaviness. Jan 2013, www.burghound.com, Drink: 2025+



The 2010 Bonnes-Mares is a huge, spherical wine that fills out in every dimension. It truly is captivating from the very first taste. Black cherries, plums, smoke, graphite, licorice, menthol and tar burst from the glass as the wine shows off its statuesque, towering personality. The 2010 boasts stunning richness allied to powerful tannins in a full-bodied style that is simply dazzling. This is a dramatic, thrilling wine from de Vogue, but it will test readers’ patience. Those who can find the Bonnes-Mares should forget about it for at least 15 years. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2045. ||Long-time oenologist Francois Millet was away during my visit to Burgundy, so I can’t relay his always visually evocative thoughts on recent vintages. At the end of the day, though, these wines need no words; they speak for themselves, and then some. Commercial director Jean-Luc Pepin was kind enough to show me all of the 2010s and 2009s (from bottle), including the seldom seen Bourgogne Blanc. I will report on the 2009s in the April issue.||A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Atlanta Wholesale Wines, Atlanta, GA; tel. (404) 696-9440; C?Est Vin, District of Columbia; tel. (703) 243-3559; Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770 Wine Advocate.February, 2012

Chambolle-Musigny has no shortage of stars though Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue is certainly the most aristocratic estate in the village, and the estate with the grandest holdings: de Vogue holds a whopping seven hectares of Musigny – almost three-quarters of the vineyard.

The domaine can trace its origins back to the 15th Century: that it is still intact is remarkable in itself, though its fame as a top producer came about after the Second World War, and it now sits comfortably at the top table of Burgundy’s great estates.

Le Musigny is obviously the jewel of the estate’s holdings: a parcel of the vineyard is planted to Chardonnay which, in theory, will one day be labelled as Musigny Blanc. For the moment the wine is declassified to Bourgogne Blanc on account of the youth of the vines; anyone lucky enough to have tasted this rarity will attest to its remarkable quality.

Other holdings include a significant parcel – 2.7 hectares – of Bonne Mares and just over half a hectare of Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureueses (a vineyard of grand cru quality if not status).

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