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Average critic rating : 92.5 points
The 2010 Bonnes-Mares comes across as a bit reticent. An expressive bouquet laced with dark berries, crushed rocks and graphite leads to a pretty core of dark red fruit. The generous, fleshy finish is the best thing about the Bonnes- Mares. As good as this is, it isn’t as compelling as I had hoped. It’s hard to believe I did not catch the Bonnes-Mares during an awkward stage. Today, some of the magic is missing. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040. ||Leave it to Frederic Mugnier to take a contrarian view of the 2010 vintage. Mugnier is quite clear in espousing his opinion that not only is 2009 a better vintage than 2010, but that the 2009s will be longer-lived as well. His advice to me was to drink the 2010s now and cellar the 2009s. Mugnier’s highly personal take is also reflected in the unconventional order in which these wines were tasted. I have to say, it was quite eye-opening to taste the wines in a different sequence than is the norm, as it keeps the palate and intellect sharp. The harvest started on September 22. As has been the case for a while, the focus is on doing as little as possible to the wines once they are in cellar, which among other things means that new oak is now practically non-existent here. Readers who want to learn more might want to take a look at my interview with Frederic Mugnier posted on our website.||A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640 Wine Advocate.February, 2012
In the heart of Chambolle, at the Château de Chambolle-Musigny, is Domaine Mugnier. The domaine has been in the Mugnier family since the late 1800s, and has grand cru holdings in Le Musigny and Bonnes Mares, premier cru holdings in Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses and Les Fuées, the monopole of Nuits-St Georges Clos de la Marechale and parcels of village Chambolle-Musigny. Much of the vineyard was leased out throughout the 20th century to Faiveley. The story of the the domaine in its current form begins with Frédéric Mugnier, who took over in 1985.
Frédéric Mugnier is one of Burgundy’s great winemakers. An engineer by training, and a philosopher by nature, he achieves a purity in his Pinot Noir that is peerless. 2005 & 2009 Le Musigny from Mugnier are arguably amongst the finest wines ever made, and his monopole of Clos de la Marechale in Nuits St Georges is one of the most elegant wines of the appellation. The wines are not as fleshy as those of his neighbour, Christophe Roumier, though there is an elegance and harmony to Mugnier’s wines that makes them one of the most complete expressions of Pinot Noir.
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