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Average critic rating : 91.0 points
The Groffier 2008 Bonnes Mares delivers a savage and site-typical blast of berry concentrate, horehound, smoked meat, juniper, and a whiff of pitch. Sweetly ripe red raspberry and strawberry tinged with citrus oil and herbs on a silken and juicily bright palate convey an almost white wine-like sense of enervation, and only in the gripping, attractively bitter-tart finish does one become aware of this Pinot’s abundant, fine tannins. This seems to have energy to burn and I wouldn’t hesitate to plan on 6-8 years of watchful cellaring. ||Nicolas Groffier seems not to have been bashful when it comes to extracting flavors from the family’s 2008 grapes (harvested in a mere 5 days, finishing October 1), despite what he emphasizes was the tiny size of both yields and berries. When it comes to elevage, though, he was cautious even at a risk he acknowledges of wines that might show stiffly and reductively for a while after bottling, having racked the young 2008s into tank after just shy of 12 months, which for some lots meant almost immediately after the conclusion of malo. (Bottling sessions were in December and February). Natural alcohols in 2008 were in the upper 12’s (the 2007s were very slightly higher) and typically adjusted by about a quarter of a degree.||A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93, also imported by Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; email@example.com Wine Advocate.June, 2010
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