2008 Bonnes Mares Comte de Vogue

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Average critic rating : 94.5 points



A more deeply pitched nose of cool and reserved red and black cherry aromas that are quite fresh and pure and are laced more with warm earth than stone though both are present. The focused and detailed broad-shouldered flavors are blessed with ample dry extract that cuts a bit of the austerity on the linear, serious, mouth coating and hugely long finish. As is often the case, this is still quite primary and will need plenty of time to unwind. Jan 2011, www.burghound.com, Drink: 2023+



The 2008 Bonnes Mares is totally classy and elegant. It shows gorgeous inner liqueur-like sweetness, expressive aromatics and a rich, textured finish that is a marvel to behold. The sheer depth, density and incisiveness of the fruit is fabulous. Expressive floral notes round out the finish. This is very much an understated Bonnes Mares from de Vogüé. May 2011, 2043-2048, www.vinous.com



From their red-clay parcel in the south east corner of Bonnes Mares. Quite opulent and this opened out on the nose, from being lightly perfumed to being headily explosive. Gorgeous already, and rather more elegant than usual. So sleek and polished yet with real depth. Polished but not over-worked. Lovely spine through it. Appetising , transparent and mineral with great energy. Very much shaped by the vintage to become something really refined. Nov 2009, www.jancisrobinson.com, Drink: 2014-2026



Deep red. Briary raspberry, blueberry, mocha and menthol on the nose, lifted by peppery spices; a real essence of this grand cru. Then creamier and larger-scaled than the Chambolle premier cru, with the sweet berry fruit flavors enlivened by the peppery component and savory soil tones on the back. This really tickles the taste buds on the broad, firmly tannic, very long finish. Mar 2011, www.vinous.com

Chambolle-Musigny has no shortage of stars though Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue is certainly the most aristocratic estate in the village, and the estate with the grandest holdings: de Vogue holds a whopping seven hectares of Musigny – almost three-quarters of the vineyard.

The domaine can trace its origins back to the 15th Century: that it is still intact is remarkable in itself, though its fame as a top producer came about after the Second World War, and it now sits comfortably at the top table of Burgundy’s great estates.

Le Musigny is obviously the jewel of the estate’s holdings: a parcel of the vineyard is planted to Chardonnay which, in theory, will one day be labelled as Musigny Blanc. For the moment the wine is declassified to Bourgogne Blanc on account of the youth of the vines; anyone lucky enough to have tasted this rarity will attest to its remarkable quality.

Other holdings include a significant parcel – 2.7 hectares – of Bonne Mares and just over half a hectare of Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureueses (a vineyard of grand cru quality if not status).

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