2013 Beaune Teurons Rossignol-Trapet

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Average critic rating : 85.0 points



The 2013 Beaune 1er Cru les Teurons, which was affected 70% by the hail, has a light red cherry and orange peel nose that opens nicely with aeration. The palate is a little rustic on the entry and feels a little light in the middle. This is just stripped of its heart by the hail, but it has a pleasant easy-drinking finish.||David and Nicolas Rossignol looked perplexed when I entered their winery, admittedly 15 minutes late. I apologized for my tardiness, little knowing that I was de facto exactly one week early. They had circled the wrong week in the calendar and it was only complete chance that both brothers had been sitting there knee-deep in accounts when I arrived, giving them what seemed like a welcome break from their tax return to show me through their 2013s. As I remarked in my previous report, when I first encountered their wines in the late 1990s, they invariably produced adequate if rarely jaw-dropping wines. In recent years that has changed. There is much more refinement and precision nowadays and I feel that Rossignol-Trapet is a name that now deserves higher respect. “It was quite a difficult vintage in the beginning: wet and cold,” Nicolas explained. “It was not very warm and in June a lot of old vines were affected by poor flowering. In September, the sugar was very slow to accumulate, but the tannins achieved phenolic ripeness in the end. We started picking on 6 October and lasted only 5 days, one of the shortest we have ever had. This was because of the pressure of rot. The millerandage meant that on some days there was not so much to sort. The quantity in 2013 is only 15% more than 2012 that was our lowest ever! We sorted in the vineyard and in the winery (on a vibrating sorting table), especially for the younger vines. This year we used a Pellenc destemmer that does not crush the berries and this was a great help. The vinification was not very complicated, with a small amount of pigeage, 6 or 7 times only with daily remontage, a little more at the end in order to prevent reduction. The malolactics finished between February and April as the cellars are not so cold. We don’t add a lot of sulfur because we are certified by Demeter who limit its use to 70-milligrams.” ||These were mainly superb follow-ups to their 2012s, even if one or two of their vineyards were touched by hail. At the top end those grand crus really prove their class, in particular the Chapelle-Chambertin and Chambertin itself. Perhaps the premier crus do not quite have the class of their 2012s, but wines like the Gevrey la Petite Chapelle punch above their weight. Overall, I was immensely pleased with these 2013s and, given that they tend to be more reasonably priced than other Gevrey growers, they come highly recommended. eRobertParker.com.January, 2015


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