2009 Barolo Vigna Cicala Aldo Conterno

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Average critic rating : 94.0 points



The 2009 Barolo Cicala reveals the particular dynamic of the vintage with firmly astringent tannins and power coupled with a leaner, more streamlined mouthfeel. You can also feel some of the heat of the 2009 summer with upfront aromas of prune and cassis followed by a visibly darker appearance and sweet spice on the bouquet. The wine has the inherent complexity, structure and acidity for long aging, but it offers less pulp to sink your teeth into. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027. ||The landscape of Italian wine has forever changed with the passing of three of its most legendary figures. Giuseppe “Beppe” Quintarelli of Valpolicella died in early 2012, Franco Biondi Santi of Montalcino passed earlier this year and Aldo Conterno left us, at the age of 81, in May 2012. Conterno was a transformative figure for Barolo whose creativity and interest in modern winemaking techniques forever changed the region. In the 1950s, at 23 years old, he moved to California to learn about the wine trade there. He decided to complete his mandatory Italian military service in the United States and ended up serving in the U.S. Army during the Korean War. Illness meant he hadn’t been out much in public the last few years. As one producer told me, “You always felt his presence even if you didn’t always see him.” Wine Advocate.June, 2013

The wines of Aldo Conterno are some of the most sought after in Italy. The estate, located in Bussia witihin the village of Monteforte d’Alba, is a producer of top class Barolo made from isolating the best parcels of land in the Bussia vineyard. These top Barolos are bottled under their respective vineyard names: Vigna Cicala, Vigna Romirasco and Vigna Colonello. A selection of the three vineyards is also produced under the name Barolo Granbussia, a wine produced only in outstanding vintages. The winery has been family owned and operated since it was established in the 19th century. In the 1930’s Giacomo Conterno was handed the winery from his father, and soon after his sons Aldo and Giovanni began working in the winery. In the 1950’s Aldo decided to set out for California to work in the wine industry with an uncle to gain experience in modern winemaking. These turned out to be formative years; however, home was calling and eventually Aldo returned to the estate in Italy. In 1961, Giacomo handed the thriving business to Aldo and Giovanni who worked together until 1968. It was at this time that Aldo has sustained a serious desire to create his own winery and make a more modern style of Barolo, so he bought the Favot farm and founded Poderi Aldo Conterno in 1969. The wines quickly became a sensation and have proved to stand-up to the world-class quality of the original Conterno estate. Robert Parker and Antonio Galloni are among critics who consistently score the wines in the outstanding category and Decanter Magazine has named the estate among Italy’s shortlist of Second Growths. Unfortunately, Aldo Conterno, an enigmatic character who became a staple in the Barolo community, passed away in 2012. He leaves his legacy in the hands of his very capable three sons: Stefano, Giacomo and Franco, who run the winery today.

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