2005 Barolo Riserva Fossati Case Nere Roberto Voerzio



The 2005 Barolo Fossati Case Nere Riserva 10 anni from genius producer Roberto Voerzio is an utterly stunning wine, and with 97 points from James Suckling, is not to be overlooked.

 

Only tiny amounts of this have been made and they are only now being released onto the market having spent the last ten years maturing at the winery. This long wait allows the Nebbiolo to soften and relax, allowing the trademark perfume and delicacy, so sought-after in Barolo, to shine through.

 

The wine is sourced from two of Voerzio’s sites in La Morra; a 3.7 acre plot in the Fossati vineyard and a 2.5 acre plot in Case Nere in the middle of the Cerequio vineyard. Both are superbly situated and in combination make wines that express exactly what is great about Barolo.

 

The unique blend of tremendous raw-materials, expert winemaking and this long period in the cellar have created something truly spectacular. A rare and exciting gem for the cellar, to “drink and marvel” at.

Size Availability? price? Qty
£1,962.00
£982.00
£165.00

Average critic rating : 95.5 points

94

94

Another strong effort, the 2005 Barolo Riserva 10 Anni Fossati Case Nere offers an intriguing interplay of power and sensuality. Dark red stone fruits, menthol, sage and licorice open up, but with considerable aeration. The aromatics are beguiling, while there is quite a bit of depth to the fruit, all of which adds up to a satisfying if reticent Barolo that should be cellared for another year or two, or given a at least a few hours of air. Jul 2016, www.vinous.com, Drink: 2018-2030

97

97

“A silky and refined red with hints of chocolate, toffee and dried fruits, verging on prunes. Full-bodied, yet compacted and polished. Beautiful finish. A gorgeous red now 10 years old. This is released 10 years after the vintage. Drink and marvel.” Sept 2015 www.jamessuckling.com

Roberto Voerzio: The Importance

Described by Robert Parker as “one of the most fanatical producers I have ever met”, Roberto Voerzio has been creating a range of wines in his unique style from the best sites of La Morra in Piemonte since the 1980s.

 

Voerzio places quality above all else at his estate. He ensures this in the vineyard by planting at extremely high densities, with green harvesting, pruning and leaf thinning all being practiced in the vineyard, the combination of which leads to the lowest yields in all of the region, about half the yield necessary for what would be considered an exceptional quality wine. If he does not deem the quality of one of his wines to meet his strict standards in a particular vintage, he will not release it at all, choosing to prioritise quality over financial returns. This was the case in 2003 when some of the wines did not complete fermentation and he chose not to release them, resulting in no Barolo La Serra or Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata being produced in this vintage.

 

Roberto Voerzio: The Insight

Certain elements of Voerzio’s style – such as the lighter, less powerfully tannic nature of his wines and his use of small French oak barriques – has led some to consider him to be a modern winemaker. However, Voerzio often remains loyal to traditional methods, such as macerating his grapes for approximately 15 days. The 2007 was also the last vintage where all the wine was aged exclusively in French oak barriques, and since 2008, Voerzio has returned to the more traditional ageing method that he had used up until 1993, which was to age his wine in equal parts cask and French oak. Despite the debate as to whether Voerzio’s style is more traditional or modern, Parker believes that Voerzio’s wine is “pure and expressive in a style that is neither modern nor traditional, these are wines that reflect the highly individual style of their maker as well as the profound voice of La Morra’s finest sites.”

 

The estate owns or manages about 8.5 hectares of vineyards in some of the most respected single vineyard sites in La Morra including Brunate, Cerequio, Capalot and La Serra which are all sourced to produce single vineyard Barolo’s, along with two Barbera d’Alba’s, a Dolcetto d’Alba, a Langhe Merlot and a Langhe Nebbiolo.

 

Antonio Galloni rates the 2010 Barolo Cerequio 99 points and writes that it “is a stunner. Deep, layered and absolutely impeccable, the 2010 wraps around the palate with serious intensity and never lets up. In 2010 the Cerequio is surprisingly powerful, with darker tonalities of fruit and more spice notes than normal. The sweet, silky Cerequio tannins are there, but there is a volume and breadth in the 2010 that is impossible to miss. This is a breathtaking Barolo from Roberto and Davide Voerzio.

 

Of the 2012 Barolo Sarmassa which he rates at 99 points, James Suckling writes that it “possesses terrific aromas of pure strawberries and orange peel. Spanish-cedar undertones. Full body and a perfect balance of ripe fruit, hints of lemon and orange peel. Undertones of milk chocolate. Vibrant finish.”

 

Voerzio’s other wines are extremely highly regarded especially his Barbera which is likely the most highly regarded in the region. Antonio Galloni awarded the 2004 Barbera d’Alba Riserva Vigneto Pozzo dell’Annunziata 95 points, writing: “The 2004 Barbera d’Alba Riserva Pozzo dell’Annunziata (from magnum) explodes from the glass with layers of vibrant black cherries, plums, violets, smoke, minerals and sweet toasted oak. It is a restrained, cool Barbera Pozzo, yet it offers outstanding purity of expression, with silky, finessed tannins that caress the palate in an extraordinary display of elegance that transcends varietal. Voerzio also opened a bottle of the 2003, which he prefers, for comparison. It may be the more pleasurable wine today, but the 2004 is a notch or two above when it comes to potential. The 2004 saw 16 months of oak versus the 2003, which spent two years in oak. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2019.

 

Some of the best vintages at this estate have been 1996, 1997, 2000, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2010.

 

Roberto Voerzio: The Background

The estate was formed in the 1980’s when Roberto inherited 5 hectares of his fathers’s vineyards. His brother Gianni also makes wine nearby, although in a more traditional style. The estate is now run by Roberto and his son Davide.



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