The evening for the FINE+RARE team actually started at our offices trying a bottle of 2003 Barolo Cannubi that was unearthed at the back of a small merchant in Italy that was closing down, and what a way to start the evening. Despite being from a very hot vintage this wine kept up its raspberry leaf nose over some fig notes that are developing. Firm but silky tannins really draw this wine out so you are still considering it several minutes on yet there is still so much freshness here. This really is the epitome of what Chiara does, and her soft touch with traditionally masculine wines.

Zucca, Bermondsey Street, opened their doors to us once again and it was here that we sampled the newly released 2003 Henriot Champagne. Not an iconic vintage for the area, Henriot harvested their Pinot Noir grapes that are dominant in this blend from their north facing, Montagne de Reims vineyards. Where other grapes in the area were baked, Henriot had a selection of perfectly meture fruit to work with.

Chiara is as passionate a speaker as she is a wine maker, with the classic love of all her wines “as children” so do not ask her to pick a favourite! She introduced the E Pira estate with some history but also with some fascinating insight into their move to organic and their support of the Slow Food movement started locally 20 years ago and really taking off now. In this sense, she describes herself as a gardener, tending what the earth produces and hoping it is good enough to produce wines that represent the unique terroir.

The first wine to be served with a selection of Italian starters – including mountainous plates of charcuterie, cheese, meatballs, lots of bread – was the 2008 Barbera d’Alba. The Barbera grape can often make an overly simple wine however this was vibrant and packed with ripe black fruits with a very balanced freshness. Unfortunately we got the last of the vintage so we will have to wait and see what the 2009 produces.

The pasta - rigatoni with lamb ragu and pappardelle with gorgonzola, spinach and hazelnut – was cooked to perfection, a stunning achievement when serving food to 50 people at the same time, and served with a mini vertical of Barolo Via Nuova trying both 2006 and 2007. On the 2007 nose I get a lot of ripe red fruit and a hint of sweet b-b-q sauce. The body is very firm, through both the firm tannins and alcohol as well. Despite that there is still a lot of freshness to be had with balanced acidity, lots of red currants and a distinct note of liquorice. 2006 has a similar nose to 2007 but the fruit is a little richer and on the palate there is more complete integration with a rounder body, more red fruit, some minerals coming in and the freshness of the acidity holding sway as the alcohol did on 2007.

Next came the slow-cooked duck, cooked very simply, to be served with another mini vertical from an iconic vineyard: 2006 and 2007 Barolo Cannubi. 2006’s nose seems quite closed just now but on the palate the fruit – redcurrants – comes out and the body is round, filling the mouth, but also with a lot of freshness that makes this incredibly drinkable now despite its age but showing so much capacity to age too. 2007’s nose also seems quite closed so the palate surprises even more than the 2006. It is completely different being very young, with even more fruit than 2006 and the tannins are that much firmer, leaving quite a grippy feel that is fortunately balanced out by lots of freshness and has a vey long finish.

With the cheese plate – perfectly portioned considering what had come before – came the last wine of the evening and completed the mini vertical: 2001 Barolo Cannubi. The complex layers of sweet fruit and oak create an elegant offering that can somply be described as beautiful.

The night was not complete here and those that were still present and awake paired the coffee and panforte with a very special Grappa Amaro by Nonino. This unctuous dark liquid was infused with herbs and botanicals with a subtle orange flavour to it.

This evening was a huge success thanks to so many people. Zucca, as always, provided flawlessly cooked food served by their friendly and authentic Italian staff. Our customers threw themselves into the spirit of an Italian meal, they do take several hours and there is a lot of food! Lastly, thanks to Chiara Boschis herself, whose passion is clear to see and inspiring to those lucky enough to spend some time in her company.