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Old vines: Better wines?

Do old vines produce better wine? It may be a myth, but many prominent producers believe so - bottles from Burgundy are often more expensive if the grapes came from old vines, according to Matt Kramer.

Writing in the Wine Spectator, the critic said despite the fact that old vines often produce lower yields, many vintners nonetheless lovingly nurture their most aged plants.

"The great Barolo producer Aldo Conterno told me that he won't use Nebbiolo fruit from vines younger than 25 years old for any of his wines labeled Barolo," writes Mr Kramer.

Mr. Conterno considers 40-year-old vines to be ideal, delivering a combination of deep roots, characterful fruit and reasonable yields.

The writer agrees, saying: "For us tasters, the sensory impact of old-vine wines typically is found on the midpalate."

Aldo Conterno is known for breaking away from his family estate in 1969 to begin making his own interpretation of Barolo.

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